We went just to see the Geneva window. Harry Clarke was one of the finest stained glass artists of the 20C and amongst the best of any century. He was Irish. This window was commissioned in 1925 for the League of Nations building in Geneva and depicts scenes from Irish literature.
It is a jewel.
If you have never looked at stained glass before or even been interested you cannot fail to be impressed by this, it is quite simply magnificent.
The window is much smaller than I imagined, but very accessible, you can walk right up to it. The lighting in the museum is subdued, soft, low so that the luminescence comes through. The micro-detail is beautifully done and like all great art works, you can see something new every time you look at it. There is a definite streak of Beardsley type eroticism, indeed, very much so, but also strong, perhaps startling realism. I can see why a newly minted government informed by an idyllic vision of Ireland would not like it.
It is a wonderful piece and Ireland should mourn its loss and Miami celebrate its gain
The museum itself is dedicated to 20C artefacts, lots of posters from the 1920s and 1930s, of all political colours, which I found interesting, almost as an anthropological study, humans do not change much.
There were sadly few visitors, which was great for us. Uninterrupted viewing, no hassle.
There not much proper parking within miles unless you are lucky, which I was.
The staff could not have been more helpful, particularly the receptionist. There is a little cafe in the museum shop.
A very satisfying experience and worth the frustration of enduring the roadworks inspired traffic jam of epic proportions.
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