As your taxi draws up outside the Elan Modern, you could be forgiven for thinking "Uh oh!". But behind the worst-of-the-sixties architecture lies a little gem of a hotel with a level of service and the kind of personal touches usually reserved for the most expensive upscale chains. The hotel plays subtly on that sixties look throughout its very 21st century operation: the reception staff are dressed in fawn suits and crew neck sweaters; the lobby is furnished in modern retro; even the name evokes the era of Englebert Humperdinck and Frankie Vaughn. The rooms are a real pleasure. There are only about 20 of them, on two floors, and they are furnished in relaxing creams and browns. Toiletries are top quality, and are presented pocketed in folded towels. A dressing gown hangs on the bathroom door. There's a minibar and a stock of snacks, but you're unlikely to go hungry, because the Elan Modern includes a buffet breakfast in the very reasonable price: cereals, eggs, bagels, muffins and yogurt without the usual $15 added to the bill. Now to what's not perfect. The rooms are centered around a little inner courtyard, and for inexplicable reasons, they leave a bright light on in the yard all night. This means your room is never dark, and in fact, I ended up hanging a bath towel over the top of the curtains to block out the glare. The obsession with bright light extends to the fitness room which is oppressively overlit; it's also pretty basic, but there's a proper gym just along the road if you want a more extensive selection of kit. Despite the irritations this hotel is hard to beat, whether you're a tourist or business traveller. The attractions of Beverley Hills - the shops of Rodeo Drive and the bars and restaurants of Santa Monica Boulevard - are just minutes away, and it's a short drive to the Hollywood hills and the film studios which are a must see for every tourist. You won't go wrong basing an LA visit here.