If you go to Myanmar you CAN'T miss this place, is just amazing. We arranged a tour in a private car all day for 25.000 Kyats, arround 28 USD excellent car with aircon that took us to all the temples. We didn't book through an agency, we just asked the people in the local bus station and they found the person straight away.
We saw people on horse cars but Bagan is incredibly hot and distances between temples can be far for the horses, the difference in price could be maximum 10USD for the whole day so it's worth the comfort for a small difference.
At this time of the year is difficult to get a great Sunrise or Sunset as most of the time is cloudy, however still breath taking. We hired the same driver next day just to see the sunrise, from 5:00 to 8:00 a.m and we paid 8 USD.
You will have to pay 10 USD for the ticket to visit all temples in Bagan, it is valid for 3 days.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC.