"It ain't like the old days," Edmond O'Brian says at the conclusion of THE WILD BUNCH. "But it'll do."

This could sum up the Grand Motel. Grand it ain't, but it will do for basic lodging--bed, bath, potty, TV, A/C. As noted by previous reviewers, the rooms are very small, which is what one expects of a prewar motor court. I'd describe the decor as unintentional retro--not a conscious effort, but simply old stuff, which is how downscale '30's motor courts were probably furnished. Apparently there has never been any electrical upgrade, as the room featured a forest of extension cords for the electrical devices. There was a coffeemaker (with no coffee) and a refrigerator perched precariously on top of a too-small stand. Ice was available in the office.

The individual garage for each two room were a hoot--except that when they weren't full of junk, they were too small to take two modern cars. No big thing.

Management's main effort at retro was a speaker office blasting vintage pop music throughout the property. I couldn't help think of Janet Leigh in TOUCH OF EVIL, trapped in the Motel from Hell and bombarded by Dennis Weaver with nonstop rock and roll. After I checked in I had a couple predinner cocktails, which made both the music and the Grand more tolerable.

Route 66 parallels the railway line, but the only train noise I heard was the suppertime arrival of the Grand Canyon excursion train. During the summers the train is pulled by a steam engine which is worth a walk down to the depot--Homeric huffing and chuffing, and a melodious whistle loud enough for the TITANIC.

Williams itself is an interesting place, with enough tourist stuff to keep the town alive but not enough to hopelessly commercialize it. I had to pass on the two premier restaurants, Pancho McGillicudies and Cruiser's 66 Cafe--both had entertainers who substituted volume for talent, and whose amplified wailings and strummings I could literally hear blocks away. I didn't think my hearing could survive the time it would take to eat a meal.

The complimentary breakfast isn't put out until 8AM, which doesn't work too well for early departures. What one gets is primarily bagged pasteries, cereal, milk, coffee, and fruit--not haute cuisine, but more than enough to fill one up.

I'd suggest the Grand is a good example of how one generation's luxuries become the next generation's necessities. The original Route 66 motorists probably saw this place as a luxury. I suspect younger travelers, who expect everyplace they stay to have a fitness center will be less than thrilled with the Grand. I wanted a vintage Route 66 motel, and that's what I got, so I'm not complaining .

But the $55 per night I paid is twice what such downscale accomodations cost father east on I-40--although in fairness those places aren't close to the Grand Canyon. While the price is competitive with other places I looked at on old Route 66, those other places appeared to be considerable less deteriorated. For those visiting Williams I'd recommend shopping around.