I just took a tour of the cemetary the other day, with a guide from Cemetary. (The prior day a city tour had walked us to Evita´s grave.) The cemetary is a very beatiful collection of monuments, statutes and history. I highly recommend that folks who want to see and hear a little more than Evita´s burial try to get the english tour. I think they only give it one or two days a week, presently one of those days is Thursday at 11 (or 11:30). Your hotel can call to confirm. The volunteer guide (Florence) had was very enthusiastic and entertaining.

2nd tip that may appear elsewhere - across from Cemetary, along the sidewalk cafes, there is Etoile Hotel. They have a little bar with sun terrace on 14th floor, and you can ride up and get a drink and look out over an amazing view. I also highly recommend that.

I went to the cemetary in Recoleta - though looking back on it - I don't know why. Dead people have never been an interest of mine. It is absolutely massive, and the tombs are very ornate but thats as far as it goes. Everyone heads to Evita's tomb (which is nothing to write home about), then just wander round aimlessly. I mean really, unless you're Argentinian, and you know who some of the residents are, what can these tombs mean to you?! Luckily though, its free. No harm done.

In photographs, the cemetery looks like a small city. In reality, it is a city of the dead. Each tomb is different from the next. My first visit was on a sunny day (shortly after Christmas 2005) and many tourists were walking around looking for Evita's tomb. Evita's family tomb is beautiful but not outstanding or memorable. I visited again a couple days later by myself on a rainy day. It was quiet and almost ghostly. No other tourists were around. Many tombs have glass doors so you can see inside. The coffins are on shelves and sometimes decorated with religious items. Some tombs have stained glass, many had elaborate and amazing statues. In one area I saw a lot of stray cats sitting in the doorways to avoid the rain. I have to admit that I creeped myself out when walking in narrow paths with tombs surrounding me. It really was an incredible experience.

My mother and I stayed at the Alvear Palace a few blocks from the cemetery. Alvear is the most elegant and sophisticated hotel I have ever stayed in. It is quite expensive, but I recommend it to anyone who wants to vacation in luxury. Although I was in Buenos Aires for almost a week, I felt like I didn't see anything because the city is so impressive. I highly recommend staying in the Recoleta neighborhood.