In photographs, the cemetery looks like a small city. In reality, it is a city of the dead. Each tomb is different from the next. My first visit was on a sunny day (shortly after Christmas 2005) and many tourists were walking around looking for Evita's tomb. Evita's family tomb is beautiful but not outstanding or memorable. I visited again a couple days later by myself on a rainy day. It was quiet and almost ghostly. No other tourists were around. Many tombs have glass doors so you can see inside. The coffins are on shelves and sometimes decorated with religious items. Some tombs have stained glass, many had elaborate and amazing statues. In one area I saw a lot of stray cats sitting in the doorways to avoid the rain. I have to admit that I creeped myself out when walking in narrow paths with tombs surrounding me. It really was an incredible experience.

My mother and I stayed at the Alvear Palace a few blocks from the cemetery. Alvear is the most elegant and sophisticated hotel I have ever stayed in. It is quite expensive, but I recommend it to anyone who wants to vacation in luxury. Although I was in Buenos Aires for almost a week, I felt like I didn't see anything because the city is so impressive. I highly recommend staying in the Recoleta neighborhood.