It was an interesting landing at Pafuri airstrip. Thankfully there were no giraffe on the runway this time but on the final approach the north wind was attempting to take us south of our projected target and our Sefofane pilots did a commendable job in compensating and got us down fairly comfortably and seemed happy with a job well done, as were we all.

Two green Toyota Land Cruisers came to meet us when we’d taxied to a halt. The rangers this time were Shaun and Johnson (Jono). Shaun is a South African guy who was to amaze the group with his passionate knowledge and respect for nature. Johnson (I was to ride with him) was astounding in his expertise on all things animal, but excelled when it came to ornithology. He was able to spot certain species in trees sometimes before we’d even seen the tree!
The short drive up to camp led us to a very special welcome. It seems that at Pafuri, half the staff come to the entrance to meet each new arrival party. It was a bit rapid fire, but our new friends included; Melissa, Rosalind, Kenny (the forgetful chef from the Zulu Kingdom) Johnson, Shaun, Colleen Mullen (who’s husband Geoff, used to work for Brighton and Hove buses!) and a whole gaggle of young ladies from the Makuleke tribe, which now have a share in the running of the business. Approximately 8% of the profits go straight back into the local community. There is an interesting story attached to how this manifested itself, for the benefit of all.

Pafuri camp opened its’ doors, so to speak on July 2nd, this year and, I have to say, this was the most hospitable venue on the trip because of the astounding and genuine friendship offered by everyone connected with the camp.

We were escorted up to the terrace bar area for a welcome drink and were given a brief discourse by James Ramsay who told us something of the detailed planning of Pafuri Camp. He had come up to welcome us and explain the ethos behind Pafuri. As we learnt, the Pafuri area has a chequered history, but it also has a fantastic future and with the dedication of all those here and the support of visitors from abroad, this location seems to me a potential ‘Jewel in the Jungle’.

This area is certainly the wildest and most remote part of the Kruger National Park and offers varied vegetation, great game viewing, the best birding in all of the Kruger, and is filled with folklore of the early explorers and ancient civilisations. One of the most beautiful parcels of land in South Africa, it is well known for its fever tree forests, beautiful gorges and Crook’s Corner, where the Limpopo and Luvuvhu rivers and three countries, Zimbabwe, South Africa and Mozambique, meet.

It can be a challenge for the first time visitor to discern the abundance of wildlife during the day, and as we were here in the dry season (the rains would come in a few weeks) perhaps there wasn’t much lurking in the undergrowth, but nonetheless we were to have some majestic presentations by Mother Nature along the way.

I was constantly appreciative throughout the trip not only of the seamless interpretation and unrivalled local knowledge but also for the overall holistic interpretation that takes the entire safari experience into account. Not only do you benefit from years of their experience, but also if you listen and learn, you may surprise yourself at how enriched your journey will make you feel. It can turn the trip into the experience of a lifetime. My only regret is not to have had longer in this location, but it has strengthened my resolve to return when time allows.

Colleen explained the day-to-day programme for our benefit. There are 20 tented rooms. These are East African-style "Meru" tents that can accommodate two people comfortably per tent. (There are 6 rooms that can sleep up to 4 people)
Each tented room is under a shaded thatch canopy under canvas, each with en-suite bathroom facilities. There are showers both indoor and outdoor. All rooms look out over the Luvuvhu River and guests can sit on their decks and watch for elephant, water buffalo, nyala, waterbuck or bushbuck coming down to drink, as well as spotting the majestic fish eagle when the waters are abundant and they are more prolific.

At the eastern end of the camp there is a honeymoon house tucked away on its own private island that is reached by private walkway. It has its’ own plunge pool and a boma area offering an ideal location for special private evenings. When honeymooners do not occupy it, it doubles up as a great venue for small dinner parties for up to about 12 guests.

After James and Colleen had shown us around I went to check out my room. All rooms are accessed by raised boardwalks and at each entrance there is an onward private walkway to each accommodation. At each entrance, there is an interesting and idiosyncratic feature. Sitting in a wooden sheath to the side of the entrance is an assegai (Zulu spear), about 3 feet long with a blade measuring 3 inches by 8 inches. Contrary to popular opinion, this is not to fend off dangerous creatures of the night but is used as a signal to the guides when they come to escort you for game drives. If you lay the assegai across the entrance that means: “Do Not Disturb”. If it still resides in its innocuous holder it means; ”Please call on me”. This simple method of communication saves the guides from walking the extra distance to each tented room (Remember there are 20 of them)

Many people’s perception of a tented safari camp may, understandably, conjure up images from Hollywood films depicting ‘living rough’, with nothing much in the way of creature comforts. This could not be further from the truth. The rooms follow the ‘Meru’ style of East African tents with the added benefit of being erected beneath a shady thatched roof. They are embedded with understated luxury and all the necessary mod cons. The ensuite bathroom, with both indoor and outdoor showers, along with the comfortable beds, and charming décor amount to a delightfully comfortable abode. After a while, I explored the common areas of the camp, the focal point of which is the lounge and bar area on the terrace overlooking the river and the regular visiting wildlife. I chanced upon a book from their well-stocked shelves, called “The Ivory Trail” by Talbot Mundy. It is an adventure novel which includes the Pafuri area in it’s story and much of the finer details are very accurate, even to this day (It’s quite an old book, long out of print) It documents in a dramatic way, some of the experiences encountered by the first white travellers through this region.

Our two “stretch limo's” were waiting for us at about 4:00pm. I travelled with Jono and a few of the others in the group. Most of the brilliant and eclectic staff have been recruited from the village and trained by seasoned veterans from all over southern Africa – only the best of the best work here. One of them is the legendary birder, Johnson Mlambo, formerly of Ndumo Camp in KwaZulu-Natal, in whose Land Cruiser I was now sitting. He did not tell me of his past. I did not learn about him until after I’d bade him farewell. (Doh!)

Shaun took the rest of the gang and we headed off in different directions. This increases the chance of spotting game as the guides are in radio contact all the time and can report any sightings and advise the location. I was, again, amazed, how these guys can recognise the smallest landmarks along the way in such a vast area. The way in which they reported their location was impressive; “I am about a quarter of a kilometre past the camel thorn tree that the bull elephant knocked over last Thursday” (and his colleague at the other end of the radio knew exactly our position) All the driving is on-road and therefore our sightings were a little limited but this is the dry season and there are fewer animals around. Game drives in open 4x4 vehicles, night drives, walks, hides (including some that cater for sleep-outs) are all part of the range of activities that are on offer. One of the most important aspects of this area is its Paleo-anthropological history, with its masses of evidence of early human ancestors stretching back some 2 million years.

Wilderness Safaris have also sponsored the translocation earlier this year of four white rhinos from the south of Kruger to Pafuri - the first time in more than a hundred years that white rhinos are roaming the area. They are understandably skittish at present as they get acclimatized to their new home, but in time, when they get used to the occasional jeep full of guests, they should make for an exciting addition on the game drives. I decided that the reason we hadn’t seen too many elephants was already noted in a book I’d read that morning and I recalled the part that said “ A typical elephant eats young branches and leaves!”

By way of an alternative experience, Jono impressed us with his knowledge and expertise on local birdlife and demonstrated his ability to mimic many of their calls. He was formerly a ranger at Phinda and was considered by some ‘twitchers’ to be a legend. On occasion, it was almost like they were having a conversation, but Jono admitted he didn’t always know what the topic was. One of the more amusing birdcalls is that of the Loerie, also known as the “Go Away” bird, as this seems to be what they are saying!

The birding throughout this area is exceptional. They recorded 217 different species in the previous month. One of Jono’s regrets about being a birding expert was that the ‘authorities’ (as he called them to gritted teeth) have decided to rename about 60% of the birds in line with the rest of Africa. He had to learn all the names all over again! Some changes seemed ridiculous such as the Emerald chested Hoopoe must now be called the Green-chested Hoopoe.

The major attraction for the birdlife here is the presence of the amazing trees that support not just them but just about every type of animal resident, nomadic or migratory to Kruger, including humans. The baobab is found in the savannas of African and India, mostly around the equator. It can grow up to 25 meters tall and can live for several thousand years. It is leafless for nine months of the year. If I were to try describing the baobab, I would say that it looks like it has been picked out of the ground and stuffed back in upside-down. This tree alone contributes to sustaining about 27 different species of animal. Here near the border of Zimbabwe and South Africa, the baobab's bark, leaves, fruit, and trunk are all used. The bark of the baobab is used for cloth and rope, the leaves for condiments and medicines, while the fruit, called "monkey bread", is eaten. Sometimes even people reside inside of the huge trunks, and bush babies live in the crown.

The Fever Tree is an attractive, semi-deciduous tree. The characteristic, almost luminous, lime green to greenish-yellow bark is smooth, slightly flaking, and coated in a yellow powdery substance described by some as sulphurous. If you scratch away the powdery surface it will reveal a green bark beneath. This tree is popular amongst birds for nest building as the thorns add extra protection against predators such as snakes. Young branches and leaves are eaten by elephant. Giraffe and vervet monkeys eat the leaves and pods. Monkeys also eat the flowers. Baboons eat the gum and green seeds. Insects such as bees are attracted by the yellow colour and sweet scent of the flowers and perform a pollination role. Early pioneers thought that this tree caused a fever since people travelling or living in the areas where it grew contracted a bad fever.

This, however, was erroneous as the swampy places where fever trees grow are also ideal breeding grounds for mosquitoes, which carry malaria. It should I think be renamed; “The Innocent Tree” (Jono probably wouldn’t agree). Other trees with a story include The Camel Thorn; their oblong fruit is a welcome and vitamin-rich variation in the diet of many animals. The trees - they belong to the Acacias - have a widespread, deep root system, which enables them to grow to a considerable height even under desert conditions. In the midday heat the animals love to rest in the cooling shade of these trees. They are known locally at Pafuri as Candle Pod Camel thorn. The Knob thorn tree is fire resistant and is used by (sensible) hole-nesting birds. The wood is hard and termite-resistant. It has been used to make posts and mine props. The species is drought-resistant but frost-tender. It is a very hard timber, which is very durable. It is regularly used for furniture. It has exceptional impact toughness, thus good for Parquet flooring material. Flowering occurs between August and November. The fruit is a pod about 100 mm long, which turns black as they ripen. Giraffe eat them, elephants eat the branches, kudu browse the leaves and shoots and Monkey and baboon eat the flowers. So, today, in the comparative absence of all the big guys, Jono gave us a very captivating lesson in nature, and with the setting of the sun, we drove on to “Crooks Corner.” As we were all so intrigued and had questions for Jono, we were a little delayed and missed the actual sunset, but still headed off for what we thought was going to be the usual sun (gone) downers and Jono invited us to stretch our legs.

He then removed his cap and scratched his head and said, apologetically; “I have forgotten the cool box”. So, no beer then! He walked a short distance away to the top of the riverbank and looked down, then turned around and asked how thirsty we were. I said I was parched but didn’t relish the idea of refilling my water bottle from the Limpopo just beneath us (not when I considered what animals do in the river) Undaunted, Jono beckoned us to follow him, and as it was pretty dark and he was in charge, we followed him down to the sandy edge of the river.

We had been beautifully set up! There in the darkness were arranged a neat semi circle of directors chairs and lanterns with the focal point being a table heaving with drinks and nibbles. Much to everyone’s delight we were to share our sundowners with the other party that had been out on their ‘game less’ drive (but no doubt got an unexpectedly pleasant tutorial from the knowledgeable Shaun) Amidst the glow of the neatly arranged lanterns, we met and chatted again with James and Colleen as they extolled the virtues of the ‘Pafuri Experience’

Crooks Corner allegedly takes it’s nickname from the fact that it is at a point where three countries meet (South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique) at the confluence of two rivers, and, if we are to believe the folk tales, there were times when fugitives on the run from one country would come here to cross the border into another and be immune to capture, but in a wilderness like this, I had my doubts that some “bounty-hunter type” pursuing a criminal would simply turn around and go the several hundred miles back home when his prey was making rude gestures at him form the distant riverbank ? (Still, like most myths, it has its’ romantic appeal)

The real story, more likely, concerns an ivory hunter. Cecil Barnard hid on an island in the middle of the Limpopo here in the '20s to avoid being tracked down by pursuing rangers and police. Ironically Barnard later mended his wayward life and became a ranger himself. We stayed for almost an hour socialising and discussing our newly acquired knowledge, and sharing a few anecdotal moments. We may have stayed longer but we were reliably informed that there was a large a “bloat” of hippos (one of the most appropriate collective nouns, I’d heard in a long time) not far away, who indicated that we were in their way, as their usual night time wanders involved plodding down to the Limpopo right through our little venue. Collectively, we all agreed it would be prudent to “stand away from the hippo zone” and shortly thereafter were ensconced in our safari vehicles and heading back to camp.

After freshening up for dinner, we all convened in the bar area and were shortly afterwards escorted down to the Honeymoon House and into the private river boma for a fabulous meal. Kenny, the forgetful Zulu chef, described what we were about to receive and I plumped for the Mushroom & Biltong soup, followed by a fillet steak, cooked to perfection (as many of us did) and finished with pecan pie and chocolate sauce. The ambience was very good and rather a lot of Tequilas and Jameson’s disappeared over the course of the evening !!!

After yesterday’s fabulous drives and very gregarious evening, it was a bit of a slow start for some of the group today. One of them surfaced at 5:30 for coffee and muffins, then promptly headed straight back to bed!

Jono, and a few of us headed off for our morning drive. This morning it was a leisurely drive north, again past the magnificent Baobab and on this fine morning we made our way to a spectacle which very few have been privy to. After parking on a path beyond which no vehicle can travel, we hiked the remaining distance to the base of a mountain and climbed. After a short while we stopped for morning coffee in one of the most beautiful areas so far on this trip. Over the millennia, the scouring effect of raging water has incised and forged its way through ancient sandstone and created a sacred place called Lanner Gorge. With its rugged beauty and breathtaking views this must surely be one of the most beautiful places in the world that one could have the privilege of seeing. It takes it’s name from the Lanner Falcon,. Between 250 and 150 million years ago, it was a desert in the interior of the supercontinent Gondwanaland. Now it’s a 100-metre gorge where eagles nest and lucky visitors can rest and contemplate that “We have only just got here” again. The view is stupendous.

After about 40 minutes of quiet reflection we headed back to our Land Cruisers for the rest of the drive. Taking a similar route for the return to camp we reached a point where Jono killed the engine and got out of the vehicle, wandered a short distance away and signalled that we could join him (if we didn’t have delicate stomachs) He’d found a kill about 30 yards from the track behind some bush. It was a zebra (and we hadn’t seen any here as yet) He said it was unusual that the carcass seemed to be hardly touched and wondered where the lion was (with a slight grin on his face). He pointed out some fresh lion tracks near the path. Acting prudently, we got back in the Land Cruiser and headed back to camp.
Arriving about 11:00am, we sat down to a hearty brunch (Kenny does a very good Lasagne)

I spent the afternoon on my veranda, scribbling up notes and relaxing with views over the river. I was trying to imagine this in full flow and the increased number of fauna that this would invite. As it was, I still witnessed water buffalo, three elephant, a couple of waterbuck and several impala. This was the first afternoon I actually had a siesta. We convened for snacks about 3:30 and headed off for our afternoon game drive. There were a few radio messages exchanged about a possible lioness sighting. Shaun, the other guide, heard her once or twice but was having some difficulty locating her. After about an hour of tracking, Jono got a call that she was on the western side of the camp on the northern side of the river. We rolled on in that direction but a breeding herd of elephants were crossing the track we were on and so, again, Jono killed the engine and waited (“African traffic lights” he murmured). After a while we moved on and after about 20 minutes we found her. To the untrained eye, she was almost invisible, nestled beneath a bush quietly panting in the afternoon heat. What surprised Jono was that, about 50 metres away were about half a dozen impala blissfully chewing the vegetation and, seemingly unaware of her presence. She seemed to be aware of them but, when Jono told us she was pregnant, the suggestion was that she didn’t want to waste her energy in this heat and would go after her prey after dark when it was cooler and she would conserve more energy.

With the setting of the sun, we rolled on to rendezvous with Shaun and his party at a point overlooking to Limpopo to the northwest of the camp. The sundowner location was serene and the sky was the type only seen in Africa. Happily downing a few cool beers and chatting with the rest of our group, we found ourselves, again, agreeing that we’d been exceptionally well looked after and were very appreciative of the hospitality that had been extended to us and the expertise that was so openly shared.

Heading back to camp to prepare for dinner, Jono said something about it being a bit cooler this evening so suggested we dress appropriately as we would be dining out. Now when he said ‘out’ I thought he meant in one of the bomas or on the terrace at camp. This was not to be.

After freshening up for dinner we were taken in our ‘cruisers to a ‘bush dinner’. We pulled off road into a clearing in the bush and were welcomed by the unmistakeable singing of the ‘Pafuri Choir’, mostly camp staff, but as their mystical harmonies wafted through the night air, one couldn’t help but be moved, by the effort and hospitality that was behind this astounding show of “Welcome”. There, in the midst of the dark South African bush, was prepared for us, a banquet! Tables were laid with linen tablecloths, comfortable seating, a bar area, toilet facilities, lanterns and what was to prove great food, served to perfection by Kenny (the forgetful Zulu chef).

It was an absolute delight and yet another reminder that you have to go a long way to match South African hospitality and style. The fact that it was a surprise only enhanced the enjoyment. It was a relaxed, very sociable evening and we all learned even more about the local lifestyle, and the aspirations of those involved in the whole development not just of Pafuri Camp, but also of the local community. It was a full on four course affair in the heart of this wilderness, complete with a well stocked bar and staff singing folk songs, as a welcome. It was a very special evening and one that I shall long remember. Again, the food was faultless and the service was excellent. The group and the camp staff got a good chance to talk about our extremely different lifestyles. Apparently, attacks from the wildlife are very rare as they don’t like the fire, the smoke, the smell or the noise, but you can never be sure if your ‘trespassing’ on some beasts territory. Camp staff told us how to avoid being trampled on by elephants or eaten by lions.

Asked how to tell whether an elephant was faking a charge, scientist Ian Douglas Hamilton told once told a field guide "You know it's not a mock charge when the elephant smashes into either you or your vehicle." So we didn’t make it a late night and were happily back at camp for about 10pm and a few nightcaps.

After the early caffeine and carbs ‘kick start’, Jono took us off for a short drive to the woods near the Limpopo for a walking safari. We would be back in time for brunch, said Jono, so long as we didn’t get eaten. Others in our group chose the “stone age tour” (Some of the group didn’t surface until about 11:00am in time for brunch!)

During our walk with Jono we encountered porcupine, some impala, baboons, nyala and a few crocodiles (from the safety of a bridge). The second part of our morning activity was in the comfort and safety of our 4WD, as we again, located the breeding herd of elephant and we returned to where we’d seen the lioness yesterday. She may have had a kill during the night but she was resting only yards from where we’d seen her yesterday.

We headed back for brunch and a very warm farewell, with exchanged promises that we would return when we could. Pafuri leaves you with that kind of feeling. You want to come back. When Jono dropped us at the airfield, we posed for a few snapshots at the Cessna and were on our way.

I will long remember the feeling of welcome from that special place far ip north in the Kruger called "Pafuri"

Kevin from Tullamore, Ireland.