The ferry from Sitka to Juneau was the best, as we happened to get the Fairweather, the most modern in the fleet, just put into service in 2004. It’s a high speed catamaran and cuts the passage time nearly in half to 4.5 hours. This was the only trip through the Marine Highway where we saw actual marine life: Humpback whales, Orcas and sea lions, not to mention the by now, nearly ho-hum eagles and deer.

Spruce Meadow RV Park had full hook-ups, 30 amp and free WiFi for $25/night (if you stay 6 nights, $27/night if less). There are other alternatives: The public Mendenhall Campground, which has some pull-through sites for larger rigs, and a dump station (although there are some sites with full hook-ups), but it takes no reservations. We checked it out and agreed that it wasn’t any nicer than Spruce Meadow. The ranger told me the campground had never filled up, but since there are a limited number of full hook-up spots and even fewer for larger rigs, you takes your chances. The other possibility is the private Auk Bay, which is near the ferry terminal, but right off the road and without any privacy or charm.

In downtown, the State capitol is the plainest we’d seen, as it was originally built to be a territorial building, and so lacks even a dome (my, aren’t we spoiled?). Across the street is the City Museum, where, flying in front, you can still see an American flag with 49 stars. The museum itself gives a fascinating account of Juneau’s colorful past, which started in earnest with the gold rush. If you’re an aficionado of ship sinkings, there is a history of those that happened just off the coast, as well. (Not recommended, however, if you’re about to go on a boat to one of the glaciers.) You can also get walking tour guides of downtown, as well as trail maps of the area. Down the block is the State Office Building, notable for a large, lovely deck overlooking the harbor. Look to your left and you’ll see the Public Library built on top of a parking garage. For fans of weird musical instruments, inside is an organ with various “extras” attached, including a glockenspiel, triangle and various drums. The next concert is posted to its right. The AK State Museum gives a wonderful depiction of native cultures and life before the Russians came, as well as a history of the events leading up to the land being turned over to the U.S. and then being made a state. Both museums are definitely worth a visit.

The Mendenhall Glacier is the third most visited sight in all of Alaska. Although if you’ve been traveling to various towns on the Marine Highway, you’re bound to see many others, I didn’t really understand how glaciers were formed until Mendenhall, thanks to the architecturally award-wining Visitor’s Center which does an excellent job with various hands-on exhibits and a short film. You can also get a trail map for the park.

Besides the Mendenhall, a must see visit is to either Tracy Arm-Fords Terror Wilderness or Glacier Bay National Park. Both can only be reached by boat or plane, but due to the much greater distance, Tracy Arm is much more affordable. Although lesser known, we understand it is no less spectacular. There are many tour operators going to either place; for Glacier Bay, the boat rides usually include an overnight. Our trip to Tracy Arm took 10 hours round trip. We went with Adventure Bound Alaska ([--]; www.adventureboundalaska.com) and although we thoroughly enjoyed seeing the glacier calve, how close the boat got, the dozens of seals, the porpoises and humpback whales, we were completely underwhelmed by the boat itself, which (and granted, it was a rainy day, so people hardly used the deck) was rather crowded. Next time, we’ll try Auk Nu Tours ([--]; www.auknutours.com) which has the advantage of using a high-speed catamaran and having a naturalist on board. Commentary was decidedly lacking on the Adventure Bound.

We also went to the Macaulay Salmon Hatchery (2697 Channel Dr.;[--]), but you need not pay the $3 entry fee to see the salmon (from mid-June to October) throw themselves from Gastineau Channel up over the rocks and climb the fish ladder, thanks to their biologically determined GPS-led effort to reach their spawning place. (Do they have some know-it-all lady’s voice in their heads saying, “In… four… hundred… feet… swim… left”?)

Food: The place to go in Juneau is the Hanger (2 Marine Way; , reservations recommended). I took a break from King Salmon, something I never imagined I’d do, until I saw Prime Rib on the menu (Friday and Saturday nights, only) and I was glad I did. With two dozen beers on tap, Tim found several of them (I won’t say how many) “really, really good.” The view of the harbor thorough the huge windows also can’t be beat. Upstairs, is a smoky pool room and on weekend nights, live bands play. We also had a nice cedar plank salmon at the Twisted Fish Co. Alaskan Grill, ([--]; 550 S. Franklin Street), which also has Alaskan and other beers on tap with a view. However, if you only have one meal out, make it the Hanger, as the Twisted Fish felt very much like any other brew pub in any medium-sized town.