As short-trip budget travelers, staying at a lodge in Carate / La Leona was a step up in price, but we were very happy with Corcovado Tent Lodge. Costa Rica Expeditions, who book Corcovado Lodge, offer charter service from San Jose (as part of your overall package), but if you fly into Puerto Jimenez on your own (NatureAir or Sansa) why not spend a day there exploring the Golfo Dulce. We kayaked in among the mangroves and in the gulf itself and had great day there. Getting to Carate, then, Costa Rica Expeditions offered a private taxi ($80) to make the drive but the collectivos ($8 p.p.) running along the same road offered a sensible alternative, especially since we were traveling light.
Meanwhile, the Lodge itself offers guided hikes (at outrageously expensive per person rates) and utilizes a core group of two or three or lead those excursions.
The tents themselves are small and charming, and quite perfect. Ours looked through some palm trees to the sea. We watched sunrises and sunsets on the same beach -- it's really a remarkable setting!
We spent two days and two nights -- the first day we hiked for 2 hours in the Lodge's private reserve. The second day we took the guided hike into Corcovado National Park. On the morning we left we walked for a pleasant hour in the Carate Wildlife Refuge, a great place for bird watching. If we had spent another full day there, we would have walked to the Luna Lodge to explore their trails, but really, we were satisfied with our two full days and two nights.
Finally, we were able to arrange a reasonably-priced charter flight directly from the Carate airstrip. This saved us quite a few hours and a bit of money, too, rather than taking the 2-hour collectivo back to Puerto Jimenez and paying for a last-minute commercial flight to San Jose. But after this bit of pampered paradise it was back to public buses and cheap hotels for us! We had a fantastic time during our stay, and wouldn't hesitate to return there again.
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