There’s no more authentic Caribbean Costa Rica destination than Pachamama. Far enough outside of town to offer peace and tranquility, just a short walk to the beach, next to a tranquil river for kayaking, and surrounded by rainforest plants, animals, birds and beauty. We stayed in the one bedroom house for a week in early June. Bill and Kathy were pleasant hosts, providing email advice months in advance to help with travel planning, offering great local tips for restaurants and entertainment, and making us all feel safe and welcome. The house was perfect for us with our 9-year old son, a bedroom with a pull out futon in the living room complete with its own bug net. The small kitchen was workable for a variety of meals, the deck a great place to relax or eat and watch the lightning bugs wink at you in the early evening. We spent $100 in the Old Harbor grocery store on our way through Puerto Viejo and that food lasted the three of us for breakfasts, some lunches and a couple dinners for 7 days. Do not miss the canoes or kayaks on the river. The water is super-calm, the scenery outstanding and there were no mosquitoes on the water. Both nearby beaches were enjoyable, but we most enjoyed the beach at Manzanillo. The first beach you see there is dirty and crowded. But keep driving past Maxi’s down the dirt road toward the wildlife refuge and everything changes. Keep walking past the river and you’ll come to the refuge where we saw crabs, hermit crabs, lizards, snakes, and some outstanding secluded beaches. We also enjoyed the beach at Playa Cocles, which had lots of great sand and waves, but beware the riptide.

June was hot, muggy and buggy on the coast, but despite that, we were comfortable most of the time. We actually looked forward to the rain that brought some cooling breezes, especially at night. It rained occasionally, sometimes with intensity, but most days offered sunshine and the rain only delayed our plans to hit the beach once. On the equator, the sun goes down shortly after 6 pm, so we tended to early nights and early mornings. Get up and get going in the morning. It’s cooler, more likely to be sunny, and leaves you the afternoon to be lazy. There were some mosquitoes, some biting ants, spiders, grasshoppers, moths and more. Bring bug spray, use it a lot, sleep under the net and you’ll be fine. Being from Colorado, the bugs and humidity got to me occasionally, but the are offset by incredible butterflies, fireflies and other things you just can’t see at home.

The rain forest is LOUD! Probably the only negative to Pachamama was the neighbor’s rowdy roosters who echoed throughout the area. But with the chirping geckos, screeching birds, humming cicadas, barking dogs (everyone in Costa Rica has at least two) and unbelievably, ludicrously loud howler monkeys, it didn’t really matter. If you can’t sleep through noise, don’t bother visiting Costa Rica.

We rented a car and drove from San Jose. A definite plus as it allowed for freedom and the ability to visit Puerto Viejo, Manzanillo, Cahuita, Bribri and other places at will. We rented from Avis without a hitch, at only $300 for 10 days. The roads through most of the country were just fine and the trip from San Jose to the coast travels through cloud forests, pineapple plantations and incredible scenery. On the Caribbean coast, the roads are horrible, often unpaved, and full of potholes. “More pot than not” as my son says. But since you’re never in a hurry, and in a rental car, just drive slow and enjoy the scenery. Pachamama has off-street parking with a locked gate at night and we never had a problem. Driving in San Jose is a true adventure. If you’ve driven in Italy or Mexico or New York City, you’ll probably do just fine.

We definitely enjoyed the restaurants in the Puerto Viejo area. Top of the list is Jungle Love, owned and operated by Yamu and Poppy. See the photo of the incredible Tuna steak we ordered and devoured. Sixty bucks got us several great drinks, a killer shrimp dish, the tuna that was rare, tender and big enough for two, and a giant pizza that my son ate two slices of and left us enough for lunch the next day. If you need a one-bedroom house and Pachamama is booked, ask Bill for Yamu’s phone number as they just built an incredible rental property - a little more expensive but a good alternative if you can’t get Bill’s house.

Maxi’s in Manzanillo was great as well - see the photo of the whole red snapper. If you’re not going to order the snapper don’t go. If you do, you won’t regret it. The waiter offered some free appetizers made from fried plantain scoops filled with beans and guacamole that were incredible. El Refugio Grill, just down the street from Pachamama has a small daily menu with Argentinean specialties and was outstanding. Make sure to try the Capharica cocktail, with fresh passion fruit. Selvin’s, also just a short walk away, offered a Tipico menu plus local seafood, but our dinner was only average, others have raved about it. In Puerto Viejo we ate at Tex-Mex, right on the main road, with outstanding Fish Taco’s and friendly mastiffs. Just ignore or enjoy the wafting ganja smoke from the Jamaican locals.

Julie enjoyed the Pure Jungle Spa immensely, definitely worth the small investment for a relaxing afternoon. We asked Bill for a recommendation for snorkeling and he hooked us up with Roberto’s Tours in Cahuita. Cahuita is a neat little laid-back town and though the snorkeling wasn’t that good, the guide and the tour were professional. They dropped us off at the point in the Parque with a guide who took us on a great 2-hour walk through the rain forest where we saw just about every form of wildlife imaginable. No alimentar los monos! The monkeys will steal your food if you’re not careful.

Bill arranged a day zip lining for us with the Terraventuras tour company. They picked us up on time in a nicely air conditioned microbus, then transferred us to another bus, then to a decrepit old Land Rover for the trip up into the mountains. Scary, fun and memorable. The ziplines were great, the guides outstanding and it was well worth the $55. If you’re traveling with kids, remember that everywhere in Costa Rica they offer kid’s discounts. Usually half price. The guides on the zip line tour took care of our 9-year old and coached him through even the scariest zip lines. I heard more than one person remark that the sliced pineapple at the end of the tour was the “best thing they’ve ever eaten.”

Other places of note were the Centro de Rescate de Jaguar, a little wildlife refuge halfway between Pachamama and Puerto Viejo. They allow interaction with their young, rescued howler monkeys, baby sloths, frogs and more. Definitely worth the $10 donation. The Aviarious Sloth Sanctuary ($25 per person) was probably worth the money, too, since you got to learn everything there is to know about sloths. On the way to Limon from San Jose we stopped at Veragua Rain Forest Park (www.veraguarainforest.com). It’s a long way from Puerto Viejo, but worth it if you pass that way. The Cacao Trails chocolate tour outside of Cahuita is designed for tourists from the cruise ships, and was totally empty when we went. But they actually let us participate in the cooking, peeling and grinding of the cacao plant and then made us some warm, gooey, incredibly addictive chocolate right there on the spot. Worth the $15, and left us with a chocolate / caffeine buzz that zoomed us through the rest of the tour.

We thoroughly enjoyed both the area and Pachamama. Don’t hesitate to ask Bill for anything you need. When the local store was closed, he brought us affordable wine from his own cellar. When our clothes were soaked and sweaty, Kathy did a load of laundry for us. They forgave us for letting ants into the sugar and even loaned us their cat Leo to keep us company for the week and hunt any bugs or lizards in our place. If you’re staying in San Jose or touring other areas of Costa Rica, check out our reviews of Casa 69 and Orosi Lodge - both recommended.

Hi to our neighbors Mike and Stacy, thanks to Bill and Kathy for a wonderful week!

We loved our trip to Pachamama from April 20-May1! The place is set in a beautiful jungle filled with birds and monkeys and we even saw a poison dart frog or two. Comfortable and relaxing, we cooked fish seafood purchased in Puerto Viejo and at the Duende Gourmet in Playa Chiquita and ate on our deck amid the jungle sounds. We sampled Bill's gourmet culinary skills, wonderful. I recommend the Red Snapper or the Sea Bass. He prepares them both wonderfully. Cathy is terrific as well. She was always available for advice and conversation. She even helped with a rash I developed by sharing some violet lotion.

The beach is a short walk or bike ride away as is the store where you can get 90% of what you need food wise. The beach is great for swimming and if you walk alonng it towards playa chiquita you will find many shells. We ate at Maxis and Selvins, both very good. Enjoyed the Parks in Cahuita and Gandoca/Manzanillo. Saw monkey, sloths, reptiles, birds, spiders. It was really great.

I really recommend Pachamama for a fantastic getaway filled with adventure, beauty, friendship and relaxation!

Thanks Bill & Cathy for a great time!

Keith & Sandra

Pachamama is absolutely the place to stay! We stayed in one of the small bungalows/ "La Casita." It was small, simple, and felt a bit rustic, but comfortable, clean, and what I expected when traveling in Costa Rica. It had a small fridge, sink, and gas camping stove. The porch is perfect with a small table and chairs and 2 hammocks. The grounds are beautiful, well-maintained, and surrounded by jungle. Bill and Cathy are excellent hosts. They will help you with whatever you would like, very friendly, but quick to leave you alone and relax otherwise. Bill alerted us when monkeys and a sloth were spotted on the property, which was fun, since we hadn't seen either yet. A delicious breakfast is served each morning with coffee on the porch. They offer bikes and snorkeling equipment for free. The bikes are a bit rough, and so are the roads, so just keep in mind to be careful! A headlamp is a must for walking/riding bikes after dark since there are places along the road that are pitch black. The sun goes down at about 6:00.

We stayed 5 days, and checked out many of the local beaches. Pachamama is right across from Punta Uva, which is a beautiful beach perfect for relaxing on the sand, swimming, and snorkeling. It is the most beautiful beach that we had seen after heading down the coast at Limon. We didn't go further south to Manzanillo. Punta Uva was quiet, calm, and sometimes we were the only couple on the beach. Pachamama is just south of Playa Cocles, which also has a nice beach, but the water is better for surfing. You can rent a boogie board or surfboard right on the beach for $10. We went to Puerto Viejo by bus for a day. I think staying south and out of town is definitely the way to go, where it is more quiet and better beaches, yet easy to get into town.

We ate fabulous dinners at restaurants just a short bike ride from Pachamama. Jungle Love was awesome - we ate there 2 nights it was so good! El Refugio was also excellent. There is also a small store a very short distance down the road where you can pick up snacks, beer, and groceries (no aloe vera!) Bring plenty of good sunscreen and apply often! The sun is INTENSE!

We hope you like Pachamama as much as we did!

My husband, BT, and I stayed at Pachamama for a week in November 2008; for us, it was truly a magical paradise. From the beginning of my trip planning, some of the excellent resources on the Pachamama web site helped so much to answer questions and give me a start on planning our travel to Punta Uva. Bill was very helpful in answering any other questions we had on trip planning via email, so planning our trip couldn't have been easier – with Bill’s help, it was more like planning a trip to visit friends than planning a first visit to another country.

Bill and Cathy are excellent at what they do, and it shows in Pachamama. They are extremely accommodating and great at taking care of their guests -- I got the feeling they will help you out as much as you need, but also leave you alone as much as you desire. The Pachamama property is stunningly beautiful – a very natural place with awesome native vegetation and Rio Ernesto bordering one side. You are surrounded by nature, in a tropical rainforest no less! The property is not large, yet with the vegetation and placement of the house and bungalows, each accommodation has enough privacy that you feel you have your own private place in the jungle. Bill and Cathy are close by and available to help with activities planning, arrangements for excellent meals served right to your terrace, and to answer questions on wildlife and vegetation and maybe even point out some wildlife you wouldn’t have seen without their help.

We stayed in the one bedroom house, and absolutely loved it. It was fully equipped with refrigerator and stove so we could keep fresh fruit for breakfast, cheese and snacks for lunch, and cold beer for refreshment and relaxing. The house was well furnished for kicking back and relaxing. The futon and glider chair were awesome places to sit and read and look out the window at hummingbirds feeding at the beautiful tropical flowers. The bed was very comfortable and we loved waking up to the sounds of howler monkeys every morning – how cool is that!!! My favorite place at the house was the terrace with the hammock – what an awesome place to relax and enjoy the view with a nice cold Imperial!

There is so much to do close by to Pachamama. It’s a short walk to the awesomely beautiful, uncrowded beach at Punta Uva. We loved swimming and relaxing at the beach. BT is not generally a fan of sitting on the beach as he gets too hot, but at Punta Uva beach there are many areas where the trees are so close to the water you can sit on the beach in cool shade right by the water – it was wonderful (not to mention stunningly beautiful!). On the side of the beach where Arrecife is located, we enjoyed snorkeling right off the beach. When you get hungry or thirsty at Punta Uva beach, you can walk right up to the open air restaurant and bar at Arrecife Lodge or the bar and outdoor tables at Punta Uva Lounge for good food and cold drinks. (ceviche and cold Imperial – awesome!!!!)

We very much enjoyed kayaking on the Rio Ernesto which borders the Pachamama property. We kayaked up the river to where it is a shallow, cool creek, and all the way down to the beach. All along the way, the vegetation and animals were awesome – what a special, beautiful place!

One day we biked to Manzanillo and went hiking in the jungle past Manzanillo and visited the beautiful, secluded beaches in the reserve. We saw leafcutter ants, different kinds of lizards, and some of the most beautiful plants and scenery I’d ever seen in my life. The coral and rock formations on the beach, the vegetation, the sea with all its moods and colors, the spray as big waves hit the rocks – it was absolutely breathtaking!
One rainy/overcast day, we took a long walk on the beach starting from Punta Uva beach heading towards Playa Cocles. Some areas of the beach were all sandy, some had cool rocks and coral with neat little creatures hanging out around them, some areas had lots of pretty shells, and there were many places where you could have a beach cove all to yourself if you wanted. Very special.

One day we booked to tag along on a dive trip from the Punta Uva Dive Center to Punta Mona. We don’t scuba dive, but we went with them to go snorkeling. Rafael, the boat captain, surprised us with an _awesome_ guided snorkel between the island at Punta Mona and the shore. We saw sea urchins, starfish, brain coral, a nurse shark, and a small octopus – it was fantastic! The folks who went scuba diving saw BIG lobsters and sea turtles. When we got back to the Punta Uva Dive Center at the end of the trip, Rafael pointed out two different types of sloth in trees at the beach. Rafael mentioned he also does guided tours in the refuge, and mentioned night tours can be pretty cool. He was a GREAT snorkel trip guide – we highly recommend Punta Uva Dive Center and Rafael for a guide!

Pachamama is in the perfect place to enjoy it all. You are _in_ beautiful rainforest right next to a river (that you can kayak on!), the beach is a short, pleasant walk away, there is a Pulperia (small store w/ food and drink) on the way to the beach, and our favorite place to get food and groceries, the Duende Gourmet, was a very short bike ride away. There are many great places to eat nearby - Selvin’s and Arrecife , Punta Uva Lounge by the Dive Center (for lunch, I think they close in the early evening) are very close by, and we’d recommend getting some meals from Bill and Cathy at Pachamama – their meals delivered to your terrace are awesome!!! As a side note – I’ve seen some folks post on the Puerto Viejo forum on tripadvisor.com that it’s too far to walk from Punta Uva (where Pachamama is located) to Puerto Viejo or Manzanillo. I guess it depends on how “up” for walking you are, but both are definitely do-able! One night BT and I planned to go into Puerto Viejo for a dinner out, but stopped for a beer along the way, and ended up watching the bus we had meant to catch into town go by while we were having the beer. So, we walked all the way to Puerto Viejo from Pachamama in flip-flops. It really wasn’t bad at all, but if I had planned on it, I’d have worn better shoes for the walk than flip-flops. :) (We ate at Chili Rojo in Puerto Viejo that night – we _highly_recommend it!) Due to a bike chain break one evening, we also walked half the way to Maxi’s in Manzanillo, and all the way back to Pachamama from Maxi’s (pushing bikes). That wasn’t a bad walk, either, and the walk back was made especially pleasant by a big, beautiful moon.

One piece of trip planning advice – we took the whitewater rafting trip on the Pacuare River and used it as our transportation back to San Jose at the end of our stay at Pachamama. The river tour company arranges to pick you up right at Pachamama’s gate, take you to their base for breakfast, take care of your luggage while you’re on the river trip, take you on an _AWESOME_ first class whitewater rafting trip in a stunningly beautiful river gorge, then let you shower and provide transportation to San Jose. We highly recommend the river trip for transportation to / from Punta Uva – our next trip, we want to do the raft trip for both getting to / departing Pachamama – it is that cool!!! (and you can book the river rafting trip right from Pachamama’s web site).

Well, I’ve gone on way too long with this, but for real, our trip to the Punta Uva area in Costa Rica, in large part because of our accommodations at Pachamama, was the best vacation I’ve ever had in my life. Punta Uva and the area around it is such a wonderful place, with beautiful scenery, flora, and fauna, awesome cool people, and a way cool, laid-back vibe. It was a once in a lifetime trip, but we really hope to repeat it a few more times in our lifetimes. :) I started crying after we boarded our plane to leave Costa Rica. It was just so wonderful, so magical – it was very emotional for it to come to an end. There just aren’t enough cool things I can say about it, so I’ll shush now.

Go, and stay at Pachamama – you will LOVE it!!!