I remember the last time this happened to me was in year 2002, when I first tasted the mutton seekh kebabs at Karims in the old Delhi near Jama Masjid. Today, as I lick the last bits of Kulfi at Spice Court in Jaipur, I think I am in love again.

Spice court has the old British architecture, with large windows and walls painted white and roof green. The whole courtyard is inside Hari Bhawan Palace, just next to the Hari Bhawan Palace Resort. There is a Cottons shop inside where you can buy good kurtas for around Rs. 500. The ambiance of Spice Court is of an old British raaj coffee house, with a nice lawn outside where they have parties, folk dance and puppet shows in the evening. The service is excellent, and the food out of the world.

The Keema Baatis are to die for. You get 2 fistful balls of Baati dipped in ghee (butter) along with the gravy for Rs. 170/-. These are like the more famous Daal Baatis of Rajasthan, with a tiny and yet significant difference - instead of Daal (lentils), they are filled with Kheema - minced mutton.

And what mutton! A few kajus (cashews) and peas add to the flavor, but other than that these are fistful of balls covered with atta are filled to their fullest with the finest minced mutton you will ever taste.

You need to pour the gravy on the balls (there is a tiny opening on the top - essentially the hole made by the rod which holds the ball while it is being cooked in tandoor - or oven). Then slowly break the ball. The meat will spill in your dish. You do not need any accompaniments - the covering is of atta and is extremely filling. Open the insides of the balls, take a small portion and ... savor it, but slowly!

While they get you the Kheema Baati, you can try the mutton Sula kebabs for starters (Rs. 170/-), which are also quite a mouthful. The mutton is soft and juicy and the spice flavored and aromatic. For a change, you can even try the Laal maans - mutton in red curry - which is for Rs. 190/-. The redness is due purely to red chilli powder and has hardly any tomato. Rather spicy though.

You can round your meal experience with a Kulfi, which is rather expensive (Rs. 70/-) but very creamy and rather welcome after all the spice.

All in all, a highly recommended gastronomical experience. I am amazed that I live only 3.5 hours away from this place and I discovered it only now. I guess now we have one more reason to go to Jaipur, apart from Amber fort and all the shopping.

Location: Hari Bhawan Palace, Civil Lines, Jacob Road, Jaipur
Meal for 2: Rs. 600/-

Best
- Shreekant
April 11, 2009