The sky had been clouding over since lunch, and by the time we reached Sucevita it was raining heavily, so all that was possible was a hurried look round, sheltering as much as possible under the wide eaves of the church. But I wasn't disappointed. This is the iconic monastery, the super-romantic one with the open square of towered walls spread out on the hillside, the one I'd seen in so many photographs and which I'd particularly set my heart on seeing. Now I had seen it.
We then drove back to Gura Humorului, arriving in the late afternoon. We'd set off after breakfast, and been to Voronet, then into town for me to buy a pair of scissors and get a hole punched in my belt, then we'd gone to Humor, then back to town for a couple of drinks in the Zero Cafe, then out to Moldovita, then to Sucevita, then back, all in all over a hundred kilometres, taking maybe three or four hours. The taxi-driver (he spoke some English) was friendly, calm and helpful all the time, and the whole experience was completely stress-free. And it cost far, far less than I had thought. Outside Bucharest, Romanian taxi-drivers are fine, and in Gura Humorului they're great. The only problem is in Bucharest.
(On the way back from Sucevita to Gura Humorului we could easily have stopped off at Arbore - the driver suggested it - but by that time I was tired. And I'm sure there would have been no problem if I'd wanted to stop for half an hour at the famous Egg Museum at Vama.)
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