Not a luxury lodge but much better value for money, comfortable rooms, good (but not gourmet) food and exceptionally friendly and efficient staff. And the view from the lodge restaurant and bar is absolutely stunning. One could sit all day and night and watch the passing scene – elephants, baboons, hippos, zebra, giraffe, buffalo, and all kinds of antelope and a host of birds, including the grotesque Marabou Stork. All this with a view of Mount Kilimanjaro thrown in.

We had two nights - we would have loved to stay longer.

Tsavo West Park & Serena Kilaguni Lodge

We ventured from Mombasa along the Nairobi road just after sun up. Last year there were 37 kilometres of pot holes, this year the Chinese Engineers had reduced this to 19. But the 19 kilometres with diversions onto hard baked dusty mud seemed far worse than 2006.

It was good to have coffee at the woodcarving “Watford Gap” services, to stretch, to look at the carvings and paintings. We are now on the new road there is so much to see on the journey to Tsavo West.

Last Year 2006 I described The Kilaguni Lodge as a paradise on earth. There is always a danger when one returns to paradise it is not how it was, memory may have been seen through rose tinted glasses.

We arrive at Kilaguni Serena Lodge and are greeted by Felix Ogembo Lodge Manager and some of his team. Registration is most civilised and the charming deputy manageress escorts us to Suite 3. We are dusty and tired needing a shower before lunch but her welcome could not be more friendly and kind. We were given a detailed tour of our upstairs suite and views from veranda were far more impressive than Versailles.

Kilaguni Serena Lodge was even better than 2006. Those good looking black cinder paths that caused pain to the soles our soft feet were being replaced. Last year I criticised the expensive wines, 2007 has seen the introduction of a perfectly acceptable range of Serena House wines.

Sometimes a seemingly small change makes a great difference. There is now a resident ornithologist taking guests on walking safaris. Perhaps he inspired the construction of the two stone bird tables between the restaurant and water hole. At lunch we were able to enjoy the presence and songs from more than a dozen varieties of birds lunching at these tables, and resting on the branches of local bushes.

There was a vast choice from a well prepared and presented buffet for lunch. Given the early start, the exciting journey we needed to refuel our bodies and felt there was plenty of choice for all tastes at this wonderful location.

After lunch I managed to activate the cyber café computer and e-mail my daughters in Yorkshire and Australia.

We come to Kenya to see live animals both the big five and many others in their natural habitat. The afternoon game drive did not disappoint. My photo albums records elephant, zebra, giraffe, baby leopard, various gazelle, buffalo, hyena and many bird species. Regrettably we did not see Rhino in the Rhino Sanctuary but early rains had stimulated growth and lush foliage. This did not prevent us seeing a classic African sunset.

Dinner at Kilaguni Serena Lodge was different to 2006 we attended “African Night”. There was an expansive feast; any seasoned traveller would have been spoilt for choice. We travelled with a young German couple on their first safari they were stunned, amazed and thought they were on a Cruise Liner. That is until the real entertainment commenced with a visit to the water hole by a family of giraffes. Other magnificent animals followed, until exhausted from our long day, we finished our glorious nightcaps and retreated to our room remembering “the early starter catches sight of most game”. We slept like African mahogany logs wakening refreshed longing for the first Kenya Coffee and sounds of pre-dawn birdsong.

It is traditional to visit Mzima Springs before breakfast. These springs are the ecological soul for the dry Tsavo area. The location is likened to an Oasis, as the bubbling waters erupt from volcanic boulders having travelled from the Chyulu Hills. The volcanic geology is responsible for the clear waters that attract so many animals in the dry seasons.We first saw buffalo taking their early morning drink, then hippos before entering the submerged viewing tank to see Barbels of all sizes.

Returning to Kilaguni we observed ostrich, Sykes monkeys, buffalo, elephant, gazelles and tortoise.

All too soon we enjoyed a grand safari breakfast, packed our bags and prepared for “the marathon” (that weekend the World Cross Country Championships were being staged in Kenya) to Amboseli.

We were delighted to have returned to Kilaguni Lodge, yes it was better than 2006, we expect it may be even better in 2008. If circumstances allow we will happily return again. This Lodge its friendly, kind and helpful staff provide all that is needed for novice or seasoned traveller. One day we will stay long enough to test the swimming pool, just didn’t have time 2007.

This luxurious hotel overlooks a large water hole frequented day and night by lots of animals. The dining/lounge area is set up to take maximum advantage of the view of the water hole, which is lighted at night. It is situated within the Tsavo West park.

Food was good and staff and service were excellent. The rooms were a bit small, but each had a balcony overlooking the water hole and were amply ventilated with screens on doors and windows. I can't imagine a better setting for viewing wildlife.

Wow what a stunning place, as soon as you pull up outside if you look into the property you think you are looking at a big picture.

Once inside you realise that its not a picture but the view from the restaurant/seating area.

This place is amazing i was gobsmacked by the view, and i am a person who is not quite often,

A must for anybody on a safari we only stayed one night but the memories will last a lifetime.

**WoW**