Plitvice Hotel has about the same ambience and amenities as your typical Motel 6, but its stuck-in-a-communist-time-capsule quality is actually kind of charming. I totally felt like I'd stepped back in time to experience the height of Yugoslavian chic circa 1958. If transplanted to San Francisco or some other hip city, the hotel could market itself as "retro cool," but I highly doubt that the outdated atmosphere has anything to do with an attempt to be edgy. I especially enjoyed the fake-plant-and-taxidermied-animal terrarium under the stairs, as well as the huge, lavish dining area (complete with old-school waitresses wheeling around their rolling carts of boiled food), which must have been quite impressive in its day. Although the decor obviously hasn't been updated anytime recently, the accommodations are very clean and comfortable. After spending a week in Dubrovnik and Split, this was quite a departure, but it was actually fascinating to get a glimpse into the "real" Croatia, as opposed to the one that's been manufactured along the coast in recent years by millionaires from other countries.













