In Croatia, private accommodation seems to work entirely via networks of friends that owners have. You can see that this could be entirely hit or miss. In our 8 days in Croatia, we surrendered ourselves to the onward reservations made for us by our hosts-of-the moment; in the case of Jagoda's place, we were very fortunate indeed.

Jagoda, in her unmistakable red jacket, met us at the ferry bright and early and led us back to her house. Others have mentioned the climb: while not trivial, there are ways around it. You pass two cross-streets on the way up: follow the lower of these towards the town to cut out half the stairs for a more gradual descent (and eventual ascent).

Three bottles of homemade rakija welcome you in the front hallway: my personal favourite is the orahovac (walnut). The communal kitchen is quite well-equipped, and the common dining patio would be a treat on a warm summer night. From what we gathered, every room is spotless, ensuite and balconied. Ours had a great sea view, and a little privacy screen to keep out the direct sun. During our stay, we happened to be the only ones there, and had our run of the place.

In our two nights there, Jagoda reminded us more and more of my mother (in the nicest possible way). With the high prices for fish in the town restaurants, we went to the 8am fish market and bought our own, right off the boat. Jagoda taught this city slicker how to gut them, provided her own electric grill to cook the suckers to perfection, and gave us a bottle of homemade wine to wash them all down.

We only discovered afterwards she's listed in the Lonely Planet, which we brought but didn't bother consulting. LP notwithstanding, travel off-season: you'll avoid the hordes and have this gem all to yourselves.