For the opportunity to stay on Miyajima itself, Yamaichi Bekkan is a good choice. Among the more affordable places to stay on the island, Yamaichi has such good food that residents from the upmarket hotels often come to eat in the evenings when they desire a change from their own facilities. Opposite the JR ferry terminal, and conveniently near to Momijidani park and the Itsukashima Shrine, the Yamaichi Bekkan has peaceful en-suite tatami rooms, up two flights of stairs, and a dining area and homely lobby on the ground floor. A major appeal of this modern styled Inn is the friendliness of the charming lady owner, and the wide range of well prepared and presented meals available. In the peaceful evenings you can walk to the shrine late at night wearing your yukata, with the same exclusive freedom as those Miyajima residents from far more expensive ryokans and hotels.

We have just completed a whirlwind 9 day tour of Japan, which included a night at this great little ryokan. There are just 4 rooms here, 3 of which are Japanese style tatami rooms and the other a western style twin room, all of which are ensuite and came complete with fridge and fresh lillies. It's location is hard to beat for convenience being directly opposite the ferry terminal, so the distance to have to carry your luggage upon arrival is minimal, though the rooms are on the third floor and there is no lift. The lady owner, Shinto-san, is one of the most endearing features of the ryokan for me, her English was good and she couldn't have been more helpful, cooking breakfast at a time of our choice, lending us umbrellas and she even apologised for the rain! The only point not in favour of this ryokan for some poeple is that it is one of the modern style and is not in an old traditional building.