The first few things I had in consideration when choosing a ryokan to stay at in Kyoto was the location, atmosphere and price. Situated in the Gion district of Kyoto, Motonago is a few minutes away from Yasaka Shrine, a colorful Shinto shrine located at the end of the Gion shopping street. If you're taking the Keihan Line, get off at Gion-Shijo Station and haul your bags past the shops selling everything from local sweets to the ornate hairpins worn by maikos. Remember to head away from the bridge connecting Gion to Shijou. Once you see Yasaka Shrine, cross over and, if like me you brought along an extra large piece of luggage this is going to be a bit difficult, you need to walk up the steps of the shrine and into the courtyard. Head for the gate on your right. Once through the gate, watch out for a small alley on your left to head up through. Motonago's entrance is at the end . Now, if you weren't distracted by the shops along the way, you should be able to reach Motonago in about 15 minutes. Get acquainted with the surroundings while there's light, once it's dark the architecture that gives the area its quintessential Japanese atmosphere may turn into a maze if you're not paying attention.
Slide open the doors and you'll be greeted, literally and figuratively, by the innkeepers and a dry yet sweet fragrance given off by the burning of scented incense. Very sublime. I knew I was in for a treat. It was raining when I came early in the morning to deposit my bag before the 1600hr check-in timing and before I could muddy the floor with my luggage, a female member of staff was at hand to wipe the wheels of my luggage before allowing me to proceed further.
While I was filling up my particulars, the very ladylike staff member knelt beside my luggage, which had been silently rolled to some corner where it would not block the main door. I was then informed of the inn's close proximity to Kiyomizu Temple, with the staff drawing a route to the World Heritage Site on a map. If you don't mind taking a short walk and exploring the shops along the way, the walking route is probably a good idea. If not, head to a bus stop in the Gion area where you're bound to find a bus to bring you there. As I was leaving Motonago, I caught a peek into their cloakroom. Each guest is allocated a pigeon hole for their footwear and umbrella as was my case since it was raining.
As expected, I was followed to the door and pointed in the right direction to head to my next destination.
Wet and cold after a day out, I was looking forward to soaking in the inn's ofuro or public bath. Before I was ushered to my room, I was given a tour of the inn. The common computer with internet access, the restrooms and baths are located on the first floor. At each step and low doorway reminded by the innkeeper to watch my step and mind my head. Simply decorated, you won't find painted screen doors or garish posters of the local sights. It is exactly because of this that Motonago exudes a rustic charm which doesn't overwhelm you yet draws you in. The eight tatami mat room which was mine for the night came with a private toilet, a very pleasant and welcome surprise, since I wasn't looking forward to having to climb the stairs each time I had to use the loo. The innkeeper graciously offered to hang my jacket when she saw me take it off. While I settled myself in, she excused herself and was back a short while later with a plate of mochi and a pot of green tea. Although I won't consider myself a tea connoiseur, I was happy to note that the tea wasn't made with a bag. I suppose at SGD$300 a night, even the smallest of details like tea leaves aren't forgotten. My bath and meal timings were taken before I was left to unpack and get ready for my bath.
Dinner was a typical kaiseki meal, with each course being served separately. It took approximately an hour to get from the appertiser to dessert. Each course was served in beautiful crockery, perfectly complementing the what must have been painstaking food plating process. To be honest, I was expecting more variety in the food. I had sent in a special request for a seafood only meal and sea bream was the main ingredient in a few of the dishes.
After dinner I went for a short walk through Gion and came back to a nicely set out futon with an origami crane set on the pillow. Despite the expected creaking front he wooden floor boards, I had a very restful sleep!
Breakfast was very filling and I recommend that you go for that instead of the continental breakfast. It will definitely power you up for the day ahead.
For the price tag and level of service, a stay at Motonago is an experience in Japanese hospitality that is not to be missed!
Room Tip: Try asking for a room with a private toilet. You'll have to use the common toilet on the ground...
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This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC.