After researching some websites and tripadvisor.com, I had specifically chosen this 110 year old (business started 7 generations ago in 1801 but the present location was from 1898) ryokan to be our very first traditional ryokan stay in Japan.
In order to ease my husband's transition from a modern world to a traditional ryokan world, I had booked a Japanese room in the Westin Miyako for one night before hand so that he would not experience too much of a culture shock (do read my other review) staying at the Kinmata Ryokan.
The renowned luxury ryokan, Kinmata, was indeed a very very traditional ryokan. As one guidebook had pointed out, most traditional ryokans do not have modern amenities and their owners' main priority is not so much as to provide modern comfort to their guests but rather to upkeep the original structure and traditional atmosphere of their treasured ryokan.
That said, the Kinmata is one such ryokan, a true blue ryokan in every sense of the word! I had offered Ukai san, the owner cum higly acclaimed chef 50,000 yen per person since their website had listed prices from 40,000-60,000 yen per person, I thought it would be safer to choose the middle category. Therefore, including 5% tax, the total bill for 2 persons came up to a whopping 105,000 yen!
All email correspondences with Ukai san was speedily answered and he had offered us a 12 tatami mat suite on the second floor with a 8 course Kaiseki dinner for 50,000 yen per person. But in the end, we found ourselves to be in their largest suite, room number 1, with a size of about 16-18 tatami mats! The suite is on the second floor of the main entrance (located on a quiet street), with 4 different areas - a dinning area, a sleeping area, a luggage area and a veranda area facing the tsuboniwa (an internal calming small garden/courtyard).
However, dinner wise, we were served only 6 courses, a little disappointed at first but we reckoned that its because we were given an extra large sized suite that can easily accommodate 4 or even 6 persons. Quality and presentation of the Kaiseki dinner was simply superb, taste wise, very good too, especially the fish head dish .... it was quite heavenly!
Now, to the negative points as to why I didn't give it a full 5 stars -1. the futon beds were quite hard and thin, making sleeping on it uncomfortable. And the pillows were about 30cm long (12 inches), made up of green beans, I believe .... very traditional Japanese but how to sleep on such a pillow??? In the end, I had to take a sleeping pill to aid my beauty sleep.
2. fortunately, there was a private toilet attached (as requested) in the large suite, but its size was, well, only meant for one person at any one time. Almost like an aircraft toilet ...
3. there was no TV, mini fridge nor a safe in the suite.
4. frankly, for the money paid for the Kyo Kaiseki dinner, you probably can have gourmet foods like foie gras, premium meats, truffles in a Michelin starred restaurant in France or Italy. But nothing like this for the Kaiseki dinner, I thought for the price, they should at least feature small amounts of Matsutake mushrooms and Kobe beef, for instance.
All in all, we had a great stay at this award winning ryokan (featured in numerous books, magazines, websites, guide books etc). Ukai san was every bit the hardworking and hospitable ryokan owner - greeting you good night at the end of the day and saying Good morning first thing in the morning, calling for a taxi for us on our departure ... He had even stored our luggage before and after our stay (3pm check in and 10am check out time was quite strictly enforced here).
For these three key points - wonderfully located just steps from Nishiki Ichiba (food market) and the Shijo shopping area, offers a true blue traditional ryokan experience and the ever pleasing Ukai san and staff - are enough reasons to stay here.






