My wife is from southern Russia, so she has more than an affinity with Georgian food. On a very cold night in Moscow we walked to the Pushkinskaya branch of Khachapuri.
The decor is very much modernist, and wouldn't be amiss in a Manhattan setting, with the close grouped tables, the bare brick walls, with stainless steel in abundance. There was a musician playing an accordion but that was as kitsch at it got.
Khachapuri is a name of a type of bread, and is very similar to us British as Naan bread. Its very filling, extremely tasty and comes in huge quantities. I adore Russian pickles of any type but I was not prepared for the size of the Georgian pickle plate. There was almost half a cabbage, delicately and tastefully matured to a rose tint, together with mushrooms and cucumbers. I love pickles but not by the kilo. The sulguni cheese with tomatoes was superb, the mushrooms stuffed with cheese and herbs was equally exceptional. My wife is the ultimate judge of shashlik and if it passes her test of being good then I cannot recommend it highly enough. My overwhelming impression is that the food was delicious, and more than I could eat in a week and not expensive either.
The strategy for visiting this restaurant is this - dont go in less than groups of four. Dont eat for at least a day prior to visiting. You cannot eat enough of the food provided with less than that. Order dishes to be shared, particularly the pickles, the breads and the shashlik. Ask for bread kvas. The sulguni with tomatoes is to die for, so is the shashlik. Share everything. Book a table as its very busy.
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