We stayed here for 5 nights in January and really enjoyed the city. The riad was ok-- it is owned by a Frenchman and the staff speak a little English, but it was difficult to communicate most of the time (especially when a pipe burst in our room, though this was fixed quickly once we sorted the language barrier problem). We stayed in the room on the top floor (with the roof terrace), and although it was lovely and we enjoyed the privacy and comfort, the ventilation was non-existent. Apparently Essaouria as a whole has a problem with plumbing, and there was often a toilet-type smell coming from the shower. It wasn't enough to make us find another place though.