I called Sandra in emergency mode; at the end of a 4-day horse trek (i.e. no bathroom) the very expensive hotel room I had booked as a last-day treat experienced plumbing failure. Sandra took me in at short notice for my last night in Essaouira. What a strike of luck for me! After meeting in the main shopping street, she led me down winding medina lanes to the end of an alleyway - and into her beautiful riad retreat. Following a high-pressure hot shower to scrub off the dust, I met a couple of other travellers in the living room, playing checkers by the fire. The quiet comfort of my room ensured a sound sleep, so an early waking was put to good use by saluting the sun on the roof terrace. My room was due to receive Sandra's next guest that day, but it was no problem for me to store my case there until I was due to leave. I will be booking well in advance to stay with Sandra the next time. There is no better base in the medina, and a more relaxed, friendly, gracious - and, let's face it, utterly cool - host is hard to imagine. Thank you, Sandra!
I was in a single room; windows onto the courtyard, no external windows (common in the medina). Ext...
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