It was a pleasure to stay at Riad Jade Mogador, tucked away on a narrow street in the heart of Essaouria's busy, vibrant medina. You step out the front door into the souks and winding streets of the old city. The staff is friendly and extremely pleasant and helpful. We arrived at 2 a.m. and, even after waking up the young woman who runs the riad, were greeted with smiles and a warm welcome. Our room was pure Morocco with beige plaster walls and colorful textiles and stained glass in the windows. Comfortable, affordable and authentic. I'm sure there are five-star luxury hotels outside the medina that might be more familar to western visitors, but I can't reccomend the Jade Mogador enough. You may feel like you'll never find your way back at first when you venture out, but we got the hang of navigating the city maze after a while. Be sure to have your morning coffee up on the roof top for a view of the city and the ocean crashing upon rocks.
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