First of all, you have to visit Essaouira on a trip to Morocco. Second, you HAVE to stay at Riad Lyon-Mogador when you go. Everything about this riad is perfect; from the excellent breakfast (best we had in Morocco) which is served on the roof with a 360 view of Essaouira medina and the Atlantic ocean to the stylishly renovated rooms where each has its own name and colour.
When you arrive Didier takes the time to give you a personal introduction to Essaouira, what to see, a history of the city, where to eat, and what not to miss. All invaluable information when you are in Essaouira for the first time. Didier and his wife really make you feel at home, and are so helpful that you feel like 'friends of the family' when staying there.
Except for a few times where the hot water supply was a bit patchy (which I'm sure was for the whole neighborhood), we have only positive things to say and highly recommend Riad Lyon-Mogador.