Ephesus was everything that other reporters have stated. An absolute gem. Unlike Rome or Athens, which have modern buildings surrounding or interspersed with their respective ruins, Ephesus remains as it was thousands of years ago. An entire city is being uncovered and displayed. Our biggest dissappointment was that we had too little time to enjoy and examine this monumental display.
We had arrived on the Aquamarine at the port of Kusadasi at 7 am and along with several other cruisers, hired a guide and van for a modest sum of 18 euros, (later I discovered that other tourist on our ship negotiated at 15 euros). We had to be back by 11am. The guide company was in the commercial building which cruise tourists must pass thru to reach transportation. Our guide's English skills were just adequate. Two members of our party did not stay with the guide when we arrived at the ruins. They opted to rent the reasonably priced recorded tour listening devices which were available just inside the entrance gates. I would strongly reccomend this method since it allows you to move along at your own pace which should be much faster then a guided tour.
Despite our strong requests to avoid the "mandatory" stops at a crafts outlet (ours was leather), our guide had the driver stopfor about 1/2 hour. This was valuable time lost and cost our guide tip money.
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