To those of us from Europe it may come as a shock to find the monks at Haeinsa Temple prepared to print a page for you from printing blocks of sacred script carved in the 12th century. Eat your heart out Guttenberg! The extraordiary way these thousands of block/pages have been preserved in the open air, sheltered only from the rain, despite the vicissitudes of Korean history virtually defies belief. The script is now understood only by specialist scholars but the aura of holiness about the place should be seen by experienced by anyone willing to accept that the Koreans have a proud civilisation that goes back thousands of years.