Sarajevo has had a hot spell (around 100 degrees!!) and I discovered that Metropolis in the old town has air conditioning. I sat there for a few late morning hours a few times, working my way through a long book with a few cups of excellent coffee and another time lemonade. I was the only customer. Another time, at night with a friend, I had a fine fruit salad over ice cream - tasty! It was crowded and noisy but not unpleasant - conversation was easy. I don't even remember if it was smoky - I've gotten used to smoky restaurants here.
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