Boragó is a unique dinning experience which is very interesting, but is also overdone.
The degustation menu consists of eight courses, or ¨steps¨ as they are called in Chile. Each ¨step¨ is elaborately presented to the extreme. For example a small bite about the size and thickness of a 25 cents coin was served hanging from a small tree planted in a flowerpot; various similarly tiny items included in the most elaborate amuse bouche ever, were each served on top of a rock about the size of a closed fist.
Plus, each item served was preceded by an introductory explanation that was often too lengthy, and very hard or impossible to understand unless one is from Chile, I guess. My native language is Spanish, and still I was not able to understand many of the words used to describe what was being served.
The kitchen - what a show! Unequaled, in my experience. Boragó's kitchen is separated from the dinning room by glass, and from my table I could clearly see the chefs working on the preparation and presentation of the various ¨steps¨ for all diners at the restaurant. There were about 12 chefs that I could see in that kitchen, often huddled in groups of 4 or 5, looking more like surgeons around an operating table than like cooks in a kitchen. And I do not exaggerate; one of the waiters made the comment that the chefs actually use surgical tweezers to achieve the elaborate presentation of each item served. Truly impressive.
All that pomp and circumstance orchestrated a dinner that was good to very good, but not really outstanding, when you set aside the very impressive presentation and consider the flavors and textures of the various courses themselves. But at Boragó it is not possible to ¨set aside” the show, because it is the essence of Boragó.
Would I have preferred less of a show in exchange for more substantial and better courses? My initial reaction would be to say yes. But not really. There are many restaurants where one can enjoy an excellent gourmet meal, but I know no other restaurant that features a culinary presentation similar to Buragó.
Go to Buragó, make sure that from your table you can see the team of chefs working at the kitchen, and enjoy the show! You will also enjoy the courses or ''steps" that you will be served.
If you own or manage Borago, register now for free tools to enhance your listing, attract new reviews, and respond to reviewers.