Fascinating city of Istanbul! Spent two days walking around Istanbul, with obligatory site seeing and just as obligatory in a big city being followed by a man (happens almost in every city). Bangkok crowds pale into insignificance with these! Of my travels, perhaps only Manhattan comes close to the number of people in one place and on such a scale! Tourists are only about 10%, with locals of all sorts. Interestingly although not surprisingly, while there are many people who “look” Turkish, with black hair, dark eyes, dark complexion, there are many who look anything but what a stereotypical Turkish would be expected to look like, being either blue eyed with blond hair, ginger haired, south east Asian, central Asian, Georgian, Turkmenistanish, and many others, all speaking Turkish. Its unexpected, but not surprising given the history and location. Crossing from Asia into Europe and back was surprisingly effortless with no passport control. Walking over a Golden bridge where hundreds of men and one or two women are fishing with long rods off the bridge. Occasionally you see them catch some small fish, and a few had very small silver fish no more than 10 cm in buckets with water, half swimming half floating bellies up. The bridge is double decked, with fishermen and cars on the top deck, pedestrians and restaurants on the lower deck, and ferries and boats underneath. I intended walking on the lower deck, but was dissuaded by swinging fishing lines with many hooks and lead weights. Locals don’t seem to mind though.

There are more taxies than passengers and you are more likely to be haled by a taxi than other way around. I had a few rides in a taxi. I used a seat belt in one of them after a 5 minute struggle looking for the buckle that was well buried within a back seat. In other taxies I was not as lucky, but took a philosophical approach of paying not only for transportation but for the thrills of rally-like driving while being unsecured in my seat. One taxi driver was very polite and offered me a cigarette, and when I refused he proceeded to smoke holding the cigarette with one hand and talking on his cellular phone with another hand, all the time gesticulating. Not sure how he managed to change lanes so many times. Other rides that I had taken were on an old tram, on a new tram and being taken for a ride by the concierge at my hotel: I read about the tram from Taxim square to Sultanahmet to where I was going and asked where the stop was, but he insisted on calling a taxi which appeared rather swiftly after his phone call, while later same day I found that a tram stop was near by that would take me right were I wanted.

Traffic rules would probably be more appropriately called traffic guidelines as stopping, turning, traffic lights, changing lanes and speed limits are clearly open to interpretation. Pedestrians cross where there are no fast moving cars. Slow moving cars in traffic are not an obstacle. Small trucks and small streets with shoulder to shoulder crowds are not mutually exclusive either I found.

There are more restaurants than people eating I thought. Many waiters are in a business of making money more so than in a business of serving. I understand when a street vendor tried to trick me when I was buying a 500ml bottle of water by giving me 25 cent change instead of 50 cent change. I objected with a disapproving sound, and he promptly exchanged the coin for the correct one even though he does not speak English. I went into a café, set down and asked for tea. The waiter – a teenage boy, wrote on a piece of paper “4YTL” and signalled a large glass. I agreed, knowing that he is likely overcharging me. I paid and he brought me a glass, and then later another one at the same price. The only debate I had in my mind was whether the actual price was 3 or 2 Turkish lire. On the way out I found out it was 2. I was not upset: for equivalent of $3 dollars I got him to serve me at a self service place. That is cheap for Europe!

There are more hotels than I saw tourists (although they all seem to be booked out). Most of the upmarket Hotels are at Taxim Square sort of in a ghetto, on a few blocks sealed from cars except for taxies and delivery trucks, and with security guards at the entrance and road blocks.

There are more shops than people buying staff. Grand Bazaar seems an outdated term and should be renamed Bazaar city. While there is a section demarcated by old stone walls, these walls mark no boundary for the shops and sales activities of all sorts continue in all directions in every crevice in a wall and pavement, for many blocks until it flows into another stone-wall-demarcated Bazaar called Egyptian spice bazaar. I have never seen such a concentration of spices in one place, although there was more than just spices on offer.

Turkish Ham-am was interesting. I have been massaged before, but have never had a male do so much to my limbs, back and head. Any more than that and I would have felt violated. While I was lying on hot marble, he even walked on my back (I was glad then that he was a skinny guy). Half the customers there were Russian tourists.

On one narrow street bumped into a colleague. How could that be?

I skipped lunch and had an early dinner in a good restaurant with a view of Bosphorus. The waiter insisted on pouring me a glass of water, for which he charged me later. Stepped into a shop with sweets and asked for two pieces of Baclava, only to be given 3 pieces with a charming smile. Back in my room where before I left I had put a sign out not to be disturbed as I did not want my room cleaned, only to find out that it was rearranged (cleaned would be overstating it), and the sign was hanged inside my door.

The attitudes of the local small time sales people to small change are a part of the experience of being here. Poor people will always try to make any money they can, and I take no offence at them trying to rip me off by a few cents. This happens in every country. But I have never encountered it to be so wide spread at every level, from a street vendor to a taxi, a hotel or an expensive restaurant, and always for a few cents, from trying to give me 25 cents change instead of 50 when buying a bottle of water, to giving me change in a respectful restaurant in smallest coins that there are including 5 yeni (5 cents) and standing over me while I pick them up, hoping I will leave a tip, which I did not as they already included 10% service charge on a bill in Turkish without telling me. It sort of spoils it a little bit. On a brighter note, I only stepped on a raker once before, when visiting one of the sites and being told by a local man wearing uniform that it is closed until afternoon, and that I should take a tour of the nearby places instead. He then haled a taxi. While being driven off I recalled the description of this scam from the travel guide and told the driver that I would like to go to a different place. He got very upset and told me to get out, which confirmed my suspicions. Today I had a man tell me that the Blue Mosque was closed. I smiled and stared him in the eyes and he left me alone. I proceeded to the Blue Mosque which was not closed

Tips:
Buy an Akbil for public transport if staying more than two days.
Go restaurants recommended in Fromer’s guide were very good.
Don’t take a taxi unless you have to.
Taxi from airport to Taxim is about 30TLR, and shuttle bus is 10TLR with a long ride.

Istanbul is a beautiful city with great weather. While landing into the airport, one gets to see the Sea of Marmara and many ships and boats all aorund - what a delightful sight!
The people are pleasant and helpful and most speak English. There is so much to see and do in Istanbul. It is a reasonably priced destination.
I recommend the Grand Bazaar (lots to see and buy here), the Blue Mosque, Sophia HAgia, Underground cisterns, eating on the streets and restaurants around (not in your hotel), walking around through the gardens, a 1.5 hr Bosphorus cruise, Topkapi Palace.
Do buy an AKBIL tram billet/ticket to get around in an inexpensive way.
Istanbul is very safe and one can walk about till late at night.
The attractions are absolute marvels and the sea ia clean and blue.
Its a great place to visit.

Istanbul, Turkey.

After one good night on the train (it was comfortable!), I arrived in Istanbul with shock. 'Chaos' was the first word that came to my mind. Crowds of people rushing by, traffic jams and vehicle horns here and there ...

The official tourist organization was not doing a good job here. There was no tourist information center in an international train station! I could not get a map, could not find any one to answer my questions. Seeking help from the locals was tough, and trying to understand them was a mission impossible.

I went on my way to the Blue Mosque anyway, hopefully everything will be sorted out before dark.

“If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there.” ~Lewis Carroll~

Hopped on a tram after breakfast and I was standing in front of Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia in just 15 minutes.

Wait, I saw a tourist information center right at the park beside Hagia Sophia! Ha! I got a map, some hostel information and a hostel owner, aka scammer. He offered me a cheap hostel room and talked me into stay in his hostel, saying it was high season and all hostels were full. I followed him because his hostel was right next to the hostel I wanted. He first brought me to a travel agency, offered me apple tea and started selling me some over-priced tour package. I left within seconds.

The hostel was just 5 minutes walk from the Blue Mosque. After dropping off my backpack, it was already 12:30 pm.

I was standing on the street between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. Geee, how could these two giant things be so close but yet not over-powering the other? I was impressed!

The Blue Mosque was solemn and absolutely stunning. Hagia Sophia was as well astonishing. Too bad the dorm was under repair and almost half of the Hagia Sophia was covered by construction materials.

I was soaking wet simply walking between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. It was hot! The 'Sunken Palace' Yerebatan Sarayi did cool me off a bit. The largest underground cistern and pulsing lights effect made this place a good visit for the tourists in summer. However, my camera ran out of battery when I was ready to see the two Medusa heads supporting columns, arghhhh!

Okay, I was not going to any more tourist attraction sites for the rest of the day because my camera was dead. What could I do around 5:00 pm without my camera? But wait, I did not need a camera in hamam!

The turkish bath was disappointing and the massage was simply a joke. The prices for tourists were three or four times the local price, but they did not even perform the same services on tourists. I was surprised they had the nerve to ask for tip.

I treated myself to a nice lamb chop at night in a restaurant.

Next morning, I rushed to the Topkapi Palace before 9:00 am to avoid crowds. The palace was immense. The sea shore views were marvelous and the treasures in the museum were breathtaking. I was speechless.

The rest of the palace was also magnificent. However, about one quarter of the areas within the palace were closed for renovation during my visit, I wanted my money back.

Even more ridiculous was, Harem, being part of the palace, they charge another 10 Lira on top of the palace ticket. It was a robbery! I did not pay.

The archaeological museum beside the Topkapi Palace was more like an art museum to me. Majority of the collections were well known and stunning scriptures. 5 Lira well spent!

Suddenly I realized it was 2:00 pm when I walked out from the museum. I was starving.


I went to the Grand Bazaar after lunch. It had lots of shops!!! I did not spend too much time there since I was not going to buy anything. I quickly walked past all shops to avoid those persisting 'come-to-my-shop-salesmen'.

Note to self: start next trip from Istanbul and bring no clothes, buy all clothes there for the entire trip!

Just got back from Istanbul for a 3 night city break. Stayed at Grand Star Hotel in Taksim area and found hotel very good, despite reviews I had read which put me off a bit (other peoples standards are obviously a lot higher than mine). It was clean, well located, nice bathroom, comfy bed, breakfast was more than adequate and had partial sea view from the restaurant. The food places in and around Taksim area, specifically Istiklal Street were excellent and cheap, if you like kebabs and Turkish food and snacks. The sights around Sultanahmet i.e. Blue Mosque, Grand Bazaar etc were great and boat trip on the Bosphorus was a great way to see the skyline- mosques etc. The traffic is crazy and taxi's are cheap (as long as you don't get ripped off i.e. apparently they have a habit of wanting to take you the long way round, so you need to know the area etc, so check approximate price first.) I feel I really need to warn travellers to be extremely vigilant regarding taxi's, we were ripped off twice in 3 days, firstly got a taxi and gave driver 50 turkish lira note, he said he didn't have change and caused a bit of commotion eventually taking the change we had. We later tried to spend the 50 lira note (equivalent to approx £20) to find that it was a fake, obviously swapped by the driver. Then when we got a taxi to the airport, the driver told us it was 53 lira, we gave him 55, he then showed us two 5 lira notes and said we had given him this instead of a 50 lira note, we thought it was our mistake and swapped the 5 for a 50, then off he went. But my friend realised she only had 50 notes and we had again been robbed. Other taxi drivers quoted us inflated prices for a journey we knew was close. Another thing about taking taxi's is that the traffic is so bad, it will take ages to get anywhere, so walk or take trams etc. We loved Istanbul and would go back, but please be warned about taxi drivers and always check what money you give them, steer clear of 50 lira notes.