We spent 7 nights at the Empress Zoe this trip and loved it. The location is great, but there are lots of little hotels in the immediate area, so location by itself that is no reason to choose Zoe.

What is particularly special about Zoe is the fabulous garden and the excellent roof terrace. From the garden, you can see the Haghia Sophia while listening to a fountain burble, pet the cats, and imagine the former glory of the charming ruined hamam. Not many hotels come with their own ruin! Litterally topping off the hotel is the multi-storied roof garden. Incredible views of Blue Mosque, Haghia Sophia, and the Marmara! My first morning I watched the sun rise turn the Marmara pink while the full moon set behind the Blue Mosque with the call to prayer echoing over the city -- it was heavenly.

Empress Zoe is a hotel with character. There are plenty of atmopheric decorative touches without being fussy. One gets the feeling of organic growth, as one winds through the many twists and turns of the building.

On a practical level, our rooms were spacious, simple, and very very clean. The windows have great soundproofing and the surrounding streets get little car traffic, so noise was not a problem. The staff was friendly and very accomodating of early arrivals, offering breakfast and notice of the room as soon as it was available. Breakfast is "Turkish plus" with a nice pastry, cereal, and strawberries available to suppliment the standard cucumbers, olives, and bread.

There ARE people who should not book at Empress Zoe. The statement on their web site that it is not for people who have trouble with stairs is very true. There are stairs *everywhere* especially to get to the oh so lovely roof terrace. And I am not sure I would book here in the winter. If I couldn't enjoy Zoe's many extras, I think the price would be a bit steep.

But for 3 seasons of the year, Zoe would be my choice again and again.