As a solo female Western traveller i was glad I hired a guide there, a young University student took me around for an hour and I paid him 1000NPR. I would not have seen or understood half as much without him. Money well spent! The crematoria ghats are fascinating. Non Hindu's are not allowed in the temple. Be prepared to pay to have a Tikka administered or to have a photo taken with Sadhus. Many beggars which can be intimidating.
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