This was our first trip to Morocco, our first experience with a riad, and Stephen and Robert were wizards at deciphering our needs. They arranged everything, from guides and drivers to changing money to restaurant reservations: even magically producing a gin and tonic at the end of an exhausting day and dealing with our dirty laundry. Their eye for detail (deliciously fresh and plump towels at every turn), passion for design, anticipation of a disoriented traveler's needs (fresh bottles of water in our room each day) and cheerful staff and conversation made our return "home" each night a huge relief. We took advantage of the Hammam offerings and wish, in retrospect, that we had taken greater advantage of the lovely little public rooms that are sprinkled around the house. For English speakers, this is a particular oasis in a chaotic and perplexing city. Our question on our next visit to Morocco will be to riad or not to riad, since any riad requires sure-footedness and certain stamina. But if we return to Marrakech, we would return to Robert and Stephen's open arms and hearts in a heartbeat. This riad is a little treasure behind closed doors.