Marrakech again but after 40 years I wasn't sure what to expect ... and it was wonderful, exciting, noisy, dirty, exotic, absolutely fabulous. We booked the Riad Dar Silsila following recommendations on Trip Advisor and it was everything previous reviews had included and more, an oasis of calm just off a busy "highway" of crazy, speeding mopeds, donkey carts and street vendors. The day of our arrival we didn't know what to think as we followed the porter down the dark alley and around the corner. But then a blackened, studded door and inside this fabulous, traditional riad, small enough to feel homely, big enough not to feel on top of other guests. The highlight for me was the Hammam followed by the best massage I have ever had in my life, given by Saida and Ghizlane who, together with manager Mohammed, look after guests and are welcoming, helpful and ever courteous. It's only a 10 minute stroll from the main square, the Jemma El Fna and the Souks so central to everything. I couldn't recommend it more highly.