As a regular visitor to Marrakesh, I was disappointed to find my usual haunts fully booked, and concerned at 'relegation' to a small boutique hotel on the outskirts of the city. How wrong I was, and how lucky to discover the discreet joys of the Palais de L'O. This is a beautiful hotel in every sense - setting, rooms, décor, facilities, service - are all offered with discreet elegance, grace and charm. The staff are wonderfully helpful, and equally wonderfully unobtrusive. The atmosphere is serene and the distance from Marrakesh is in reality short (just a 20 minute drive) but feels a million miles away from the noise and crowds. Daytimes are spent on comfortable loungers by the quiet poolside, with the scent of roses and lavenders, being pampered in the small but well equipped spa or enjoying, at any time of day, the freshest of foods prepared exactly to your order. At night, it's a pleasure to return to a place that becomes a personal oasis. An unforgettable few days and now my number one choice.