In a way I loved it and in a way I was disappointed by it.
At day it is a collection of snake charmers and monkey merchants with a few dance troupes as well and a continuous ring of fresh juice stalls.
It is certainly a hive of human activity in the day and you can while a way many a pleasant moment people watching from the terraces of the cafes.
The people in the square such as the snake charmers are the entertainers, if you like, if you want to take a photo then expect to pay to be entertained by the snake, or the monkey or the dancer when you take a photograph.
It galled me to see how people reacted when they asked to take a photo and were asked for a coin or two....it is how they earn a living and if you don't want to pay then don't think you can just take a photo up close without some hassle...it's an easy concept. A dirham or two isn't going to break a bank!
Daytime though I was a tad disappointed as it wasn't that full of anything, however night time and this place comes to life in a riot of noise and the smells of many food stalls selling full meals, soups and snails assails your senses.
As you walk up and down the food stalls you will be constantly asked to visit their eatery, it is all good humoured and great fun to see the responses to your I'm full or I've eaten whilst trying to decide which one to eat at.
All the food is freshly brought in and cooked in front of you near enough so the chances of being ill are probably far far far less here than at your hotel buffet.
The musicians start slowly but build up to a crescendo of noise and sounds, all very rhythmic and trance like.
Henna tattoos will be offered everywhere by women sitting down, just be careful as the black henna is chemically laden apparently.
There are a few market stalls selling wares, again haggling works and there are many juice, spice and fruit sellers. The sweet carts offer excellent value.
There are kids who will try to sell you a few toys (the rage was propellers with LED in that float down when we were there) but a polite non merci does the trick.
When you've eaten your fill, when your ear drums are full and your legs walked off then sit down in the Cafe Glacier and watch the crowds mill around in front of you.
So a bit dull in the day but wow what a place at night...if you can visit just once then make it the night but if you can do both then Jemaa el Fna is a must see.
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