We stayed near Jemaa el Fna so experienced it in many different lights. If you don't like crowds, hectic scenarios or are put off by scammer's and poverty then I am not sure why you are even travelling to Morocco. But for those of you that love to experience a bit of culture and soak in what Morocco has to offer then this is the place to be.
During the day it provides a great place to choose a restaurant/cafe to eat at, yes it may be a little more expensive to dine here as it is in the main square but what is an extra couple of dirhams when you can sit for hours just watching the world go by. The juice carts are functioning at all hours, so treat yourself to a 4 dirham drink when your sweating it out in 40 degree heat.
This is a good place to start your shopping and explore the area. Once it gets to about 6pm you see what is the only "bare" area in the square start to transform. Heaps of little stores are set up to sell dinner. Mainly the same sort of thing so don't spend to much time choosing one, but you can sit and enjoy a cheap feed, fresh off the grill. The rest of the square, although already seemed full in the day fills up with about 8 times more people and you can easily spend a few hours walking around watching the buskers, musicians etc. I don't fancy watching the snake charmers or money tamers but I am not going to let it bother me. Practices such as these in countries like this probably wont ever change so just carry on experiencing the things you do enjoy and try not to let it upset you.
We spent every night down in Jemaa el Fna and found that when we went to other parts in Morocco we missed the action and community attached to having such a festival style main square.
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