We only came upon Riad El Ouarda by chance, but the establishment was the making of our five days in Marrakesh. The entrance is hidden away next to the Zaouia el Abbasia mosque at the frenetic north end of the walled city. But through the anonymous grey door and you are on another planet of calm, quiet and beauty. The riad was built in the late seventeenth century, predating Georgian and Queen Anne architecture. But the lay-out is timeless : three floors of loggia looking over a flowing pool, decorated with bouganvillia and alive with little birds. Open to the sky above so that the entire building is bright yet cool. And a furnished roof for early morning and evening, for breakfast of fresh fruit and warm pastry, for an evening meal of tagine, couscous and local wine. The rooms are magnificent, well over 20 feet high, plainly decorated except for the ceilings which are covered in coloured motifs and arabesques. The service matches the building, quietly perfect, organised by Adeel, the manager, and his team. They are there to assist with anything you wish. Adeel took us a long journey out of town to source candles not found in the souk, and he arranged two mornings of study for me, to discuss Morocco, Arab politics and history with an expert.
The only mild problem is that the riad is a little out of the way. But Fana'a square is no more than 15 minutes distance on foot and the entrance to the souk is closer. Or Adeel will arrange a taxi for any longer trip with average fares of around $2.50 for most destinations in the city.
El Ouarda, and drinks in the Churchill bar of the Hotel Mamounia were by far the best part of our stay. paul@paulgrieve.com
Room Tip: All are equally good, but the second floor is preferable.
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