We hired a car and a driver for our trip to the valley. We went on a Monday which turned out to be lucky as first stop at the four of the mountains was the weekly souk for locals. It was incredibly busy, and with only a few tourists it was as authentic as it gets. Not for everyone I would guess - you will see chickens having their knacks wrung etc. You will also see men being shaved, and the odd tooth extraction.
Next stop was a commune in a Berber house. You get to tour the house for a donation of your own choosing.
The valley and the mountains are spectacular - the tops were still snow covered. We then visited a medicinal herb centre, before lunch and a trek to the waterfalls.
I would agree with other comments that the area is aimed at tourists - what would you expect? Also the walk up to the waterfalls is spoilt by the rubbish - probably from the tourists, but you should still go if you can make it.
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