Jungle Lodge was fun! One morning we greeted our neighbour who turned out to be a DJ from Michigan and we all went into this familiar riff and rant about the world economy and how the American sub-prime market had sent houses prices spiralling downwards, we talked about the war, and leaving the US and the UK for good. And all the while howler monkeys and parrots in the trees above maintained their own cacophonous conversations about how mass tourism is wrecking the Peten . . .
Our tour operator - Journey Latin America - had booked us into Jungle Lodge with a warning about the food and the service. In fact, the food was OK, given that you don’t expect or indeed want foie gras or lobster. They did a chewy but tasty steak, with decent fries, washed down with Chilean pinot noir. They could even fry an egg for breakfast. And service was with a smile, though they did not like you signing for your dinner and paying on check-out. Maybe they have had some walk-outs in the past.
The jungle setting is delightfully natural and the terracotta-colored chalets scattered about makes for a pleasant little community. It really doesn’t matter which room you are given. The rooms themselves lack adequate soundproofing and could do with some cosmetic improvements, like replacing the vaguely English country chintz fabric and dreary curtains with some authentic, vibrant Guatemalan fabrics. The hotel is also a bit mean-spirited or thoughtless about providing basic jungle amenities like mozzie spray, umbrellas and torches - the lights go out at 10pm-ish. The bathroom and shower actually worked. At $150 a night, though, it’s not good value, but I guess you are paying for the setting and location. Certainly this place looks a lot better than the two other lodges here - Jaguar Inn and Tikal Inn - which looked totally cheerless.
The grand plaza of Tikal is a 20-30-minute walk away. Of course, the site is fairly awesome and the jungle contains some marvelous birds and beasts, but as someone who has previously been to places like Delphi, Petra, Leptis Magna, Angkor and Karnak, Tikal is a bit limited and one-dimensional. It’s not a memory I will cherish for long, I think. Our guide, by the way, was Eric and he was outstanding, especially once he saw that we were carrying binoculars - the carparks and reservoir near the entrance to Jungle Lodge has the best birdwatching we thought.
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