MACHACA HILL LODGE

This is a fabulous eco-lodge in the far southern part of Belize, near the town of Punta Gorda in the Toledo District, which we visited from Feb. 11 – 15, 2009. The lodge is situated in the Laughing Falcon Reserve, 11,000 acres of privately owned forest. The main lodge building (consisting of the restaurant, bar, reception area, two verandas on different levels, and a small gift shop) sits in a magnificent location on the top of a hill, looking down on the Rio Grande River with a view in the distance to the Gulf of Honduras. The location is particularly enchanting because the top-level veranda is at tree level. At one sitting, we counted approximately 20 large-billed birds in one tree. Keel-billed toucans and collared aracaris eagerly munched on the fruits that had ripened in the tree opposite our breakfast table. The variety of birds was amazing. Troops of howler monkeys come and go as well as coatis and kinkajous.

Machaca Hill was bought a couple of years ago by an American, and he converted it from a fishing camp into an eco-lodge. He has brought in new management (a South African couple, Brian and Jane Gardiner), and the team has been upgrading the 12 cabanas and hiring new staff and guides. What is unique about Machaca Hill among all the lodges we have visited in Belize (we have been to the country 5 times and have stayed in most of the best lodges) is the food. The Gardiners persuaded the chef who worked with them in Africa to come to Belize. He is fantastic and seems to work all the time. He has to because he puts on 3 full meals each day, along with a formal high tea and pre-dinner snacks and drinks. There was so much food that we finally gave up on the pre-dinner snacks because it was just too much. The cakes at high tea and the sticky buns at breakfast were some of the best we have had anywhere in the world. The food featured extremely fresh vegetables, phenomenal fish, etc. All prepared in delicious ways, not at all typical of such a remote setting. Nothing comes from a tin or is processed.

All the management, guides and staff are extraordinarily friendly, solicitous, knowledgeable, energetic and professional. I wish we were professional writers so that we could better capture the energy and enthusiasm the staff at Machaca directs toward providing each individual guest with a peak travel experience tailored to his or her need. The guides, Roberto, Hugo and Wilfred had their own guide businesses before they were hired by the Gardiners. For us, this was the best aspect of this lodge. Whether you wished to hike unaccompanied and then share your excitement about what you saw during meals, or if you wanted a guide to lead you through the jungle, the staff accommodated and seem to delight in your travel style. We did not take guided trips to other sites (to ruins and a cave), but other guests did and were very pleased with their experiences. They also offer snorkeling and fishing trips to the cayes in the Bay of Honduras.

We canoed on the river alone, and hiked on trails both with and without a guide. The jungle at Machaca is magnificently unspoiled. While walking on the trails, we were totally “in the moment.” Our senses were heightened with excitement and a lack of predictability, not knowing what we might see or hear. This is true adventure and the reason why we plan to return next year.

There is a tram that leads from the lodge and cabin level down to the river for guests who do not want to traverse the 375 steps to its banks. The guided experience was enriched by the identification of animals we might not have seen on our own. Roberto was a veritable font of knowledge about his country. He enthusiastically shared information about the jungle and its inhabitants while we walked, as well as at mealtimes. All of the guides are keen about Belize and take pride in their country’s role in conserving the environment. They, as well as Kim, the assistant manager, are articulate, engaging conversationalists.

As to the facilities, they are also first-rate. The pool is beautiful. The cabins are exquisitely appointed with large screened-in verandas. The bathrooms are lovely, decorated with fresh flowers, ample towels as well as robes. The showers come stocked with Moulton Brown of London products. A personal welcome note from the management along with a fruit basket and a Machaca Hill water bottle greet each guest. We cannot say enough about this lodge and its unique setting and recommend it for all travelers interested in a luxurious jungle experience.

First a preface; the name of this completely refurbished slice of heaven in Belize is now Machaca Hill Rainforest Canopy Lodge. My wife and I have traveled to an exotic destination at least once per year for most of the past twenty years. We choose no stars to five stars depending on where we are and what we feel we want to experience.

That said, here is my review: The new owner and staff of this amazing place have done an extraordinary job of blending unspoiled nature, fresh foods, flawless service and luxurious very private rooms (seemingly perched in the top of old growth rainforest). The General Manager and his wife have specialized in high-end African safari management for many years. In this part of Belize that experience transfers very well. They have brought their executive chef with them from Botswana and he and his staff serve three meals plus high tea and pre-dinner appetizers that were consistently outstanding.
Upon arrival at the Punta Gorda airstrip we were met by one of the guides from Machaca Hill for a ride up the Rio Grande River to the lodge. From arrival to departure we had a professional certified guide with us any time we wanted one. We chose to spend three days on organized expeditions. The guides all know more than any guide I have ever hired. They know Central American history very well and their knowledge of the animals, birds and plants was remarkable.
The new owner is committed to keeping the rainforest unspoiled and his and the GM’s plan for other small eco-friendly resorts in southern Belize is refreshing and commendable. This was an experience of a lifetime.

My wife and I were looking for a honeymoon spot that wasn't super touristy, had 5 star service, and had an environmental bent. Machaca Hill is on the edge of a 30,000 acres nature preserve, and is basically tucked into the canopy of the rainforest. Having said that, we could make it into Punta Gorda in 10 minutes by van. During our stay, we were given a tour of the facility, where the manager pointed out some of the steps they were taking to be more environmentally friendly, including having an operating organic farm onsite, and using compact fluorescent bulbs.

We traveled during the rainy season, and while a hurricane was battering the coast a few hundred miles south of us, the weather was spectacular at Machaca Hill. It rained about two hours a day, in the early morning, and the rest of each day was sunny and perfect.

The staff was spectacular. We were one of only two couples that week, and we were treated like honored family. The staff doted on us, and gave us everything we needed. Because we were vegetarian, the chef made us unique dinners every night, each of which was spectacular. Since it was our honeymoon, I had asked for a couple of special things, including champagne and fruit basket in the room upon arrival, and dinner in our room one evening. Not only did the staff meet all my requests, but they took it upon themselves to make it even better than I had requested. When we came in for our in room dinner, there were fresh flowers on a white cloth draped table that they had hauled up the stairs to our bungalow, and tropical flower petals strewn about the room. Instead of just bringing dinner up to us, they gave us a full dinner service, with our own personal waiter.

We filled the week with scuba diving, touring mayan ruins, visiting the rainforest, and relaxing. Machaca Hill is not the place to go if you want an all inclusive, tourist style, resort. It is the place to go if you want a small, cozy atmosphere that still has all the amenities. Our honeymoon could not have been more perfect.

very comfortable cabanas, excellent service, lovely people, but the dinner menu never changed while we were there and some of the food eg the steak was inedible and I got fed up with fish smothered in tomato sauce with black olives . Incredible birds, toucans vermilion flycatchers bat falcons etc and booming howler monkeys at dawn made this a fabulous place to stay. If only they could make the food edible it would be paradise