We went from Ian Anderson's Caves Branch to Francis Ford Coppola's Turtle Inn, arguably the "best" property in Belize. Our kids' (11 and 7) reaction to Turtle Inn: "it's nice, but it isn't Caves Branch". That, in my opinion, says it all. The combination of wonderful adventures, friendly and knowledgeable staff, and the pleasant company of fellow guests made our stay at Caves Branch truly memorable.
Be warned: Caves Branch isn't for everybody. The accomodations are fairly spartan (we were in a jungle suite; I believe the treehouses are more luxurious), and the shower never managed more than an anemic trickle of water. There is no airconditioning, and many of the accomodations don't have electric lights, which means that you can't read before going to bed (I defy any normal adult to read by the light of the flickering kerosene lamps). Bugs of varying size will share your room with you. Meals are served on schedule, and if you don't keep to the schedule, you're pretty much out of luck.
And guess what: WE LOVED IT. The shared seating at meals led to us talking to the other guests - none of that careful avoidance of other guests that you find at many resorts. Breakfasts were devoted to discussing the day's upcoming trips, dinners to raving over the experiences and commiserating over the new aches and pains we had sustained (and detailing our embarassment over our lack of physical fitness compared to our guides). The (pretty much) unlimited drinks made everyone chatty. When we were there, the guests came from pretty diverse backgrounds (given that everyone lived in North America), which was really fun.
The adventures themselves are reasonably challenging. We went horseback riding (very tame, and mainly to ease the kids into the action), river tubing/caving (moderate effort), Tikal (long day trip) and to the Black Hole (moderately difficult). The trips are not intended for hardcore outdoorsmen/women (they have a 4 day jungle trip where the participants get a machete and nothing else that should satisfy the purists), but they are not a sunday walk in the park either.
The guides are great: they are knowledgeable and friendly, and you are constantly learning (our best experience: a little fruit that exudes a flammable liquid; hold a light to it, squeeze, and voila, a tiny little flame thrower). They even manage to keep their amusement at the tourists' bumbling ineptitude from showing. Seriously, they are fantastic.
One final word: you are in the jungle! That means incredibly loud howler monkeys, bugs, birds, even snakes (we walked right over one one night on our way back to our suite). I don't know how some of the other reviewers said you don't see many animals. One morning bird watching showed approximately 50 different birds within a half mile of the lodge.
Can't wait to go back.
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