As a well travelled person, but a first-time visitor to Eastern Europe I particularly wanted a hotel unique and typical of the city. I did not want another world-wide chain hotel with a modern concrete building filled with identical shoe-box rooms. In fact there's only one well known chain in Riga, the Radisson SAS. However, there's plenty of wannabe chain hotels - I discarded them and was left with a short list of classical hotels. After carefully reading through all the reviews here I choose The Europa Royale, ignoring the fact that it's score wasn't as high as some I read the content of each review to judge what it was people liked about it.

It turned out to be exactly what I was looking for, it blew me away! Built in 1876 in a Florentine Renaissance style (according to the guide book) this building is just incredible. It's got the most beautiful proportioned rooms (huge) with extra high ceilings and amazing decoration, the detail is extraordinary. I would guess that the hotel was completely refurbished no more than a year ago, as everything looks new, whilst being in a very old shell. The bathrooms had electric underfloor heating so the tiles were lovely and warm. Rooms had an electronic safe, free wifi or wired internet and wall mounted widescreen televisions with a good choice of channels. (Beware of the explicit adult channels at night-time!).

I booked a deluxe room direct with the hotel and the nightly rate of 77 LVL was extremely good value and included breakfast. I imagine that a similar property in a city like Paris would cost at least 5 times as much. (And the staff would be vile to you for no extra charge!). The breakfast was very nice indeed, a comprehensive buffet selection - and served until 11am at the weekends, which is great for a relaxing weekend.

If I had to find fault it would be that the bar was small and the staff incredibly slow. However, they were always friendly and always gave the impression of trying their hardest. Drinks were carefully made, the only problem was how long it took. I was very disapointed on our night of arrival around 11pm to be told that there was no possibilty of food at the hotel (room service or otherwise) and indeed that the only place in Riga still serving food at this hour would be the nearby McDonald's! Be warned... Rigans eat early and kitchens close around 10pm.

Bear this in mind though and you'll be fine, you will also save a lot of money as everything is cheap in Riga, food and drink are half the price of the UK. A nice place to relax and recharge when out and about is the Starbucks inspired "Double Coffee" outlets which are peppered across Riga. Unlike their Seattle rivals prices are reasonable and they serve alcohol and freshly prepared food in addition to all the usual types of hot drink you would expect.

Riga is a very compact city so you can get around easily on foot. The Europa Royale is in a good location, just a 5 minute walk from the edge of the old town, and right beside the parks. 5 minutes walk to the North is the Reval Hotel, probably Riga's tallest building. It's another popular hotel but for me the attraction wasn't the glitzy lobby or the concrete and glass construction (it's just an identikit hotel like thousands the world over) but the jewel here is the Skyline bar. On the 26th floor of the Reval this is a real destination and well worth a visit (get there before sunset to get a window seat, then sit back and enjoy the view!). It's the nicest rooftop bar I've been in of any hotel so far. (Beating, in my humble opinion even "Felix" at The Peninsula in Hong Kong!).

I would guess that 90% of the sites can be visited on foot with no more than a 20 minute walk, but if you do want to go further afield the convenient trams and trolley buses are only 0.30 LVL per trip. We enjoyed these trips not knowing where we going and it was all just part of the fun having a nonsense conversation with the ticket collector! Taxis are another option, best for the trip to/from the airport. At only 7 LVL for the 15 minute journey it's a lot cheaper than the UK would be.

Riga is 800 years old, the old town is extremely picturesque and this is usually what is seen on the postcards, but I think my best memories are of wandering around the Art Nouveau district with buildings which make wedding cake decoration seem restrained! Some of them have been beautifully restored, and some of them will be in the coming years no doubt. Apparetly the inside of many buildings have been ruined as during the Soviet era 10 room apartments were divided into tiny living units. Now they are a mix of private and publicly owned.

Riga is a city of contrasts. It's residents are clearly still quite poor compared to their fellow EU residents from "old Europe" and you'll see all walks of life at the daily central market just South of the Old Town. I could just imagine how life in the Soviet era, (only 16 years ago) would have been quite miserable.

It's a fascinating city with plenty of interesting attractions and things to seek out, a long weekend here should reward the intrepid traveller with some good memories. Don't be put off by talk of Riga becoming inundated with stag parties... Riga is the quietest capital city I have ever seen!! Perhaps this has more to do with visiting in the middle of winter, when it's as cold as it is in Riga why would anyone spend more time then necessary outside.

I look forward to returning to see Riga, next time in the Summer, the parks will be stunning with the trees in full bloom, and I would have no hesitation in choosing the Europa Royale again. It has made a lasting impression on me and I doubt I'm ever going to find somewhere as elegant and such great value for money ever again.