We didn't have much time in Kracow and wanted to combine visits to Auschwitz-Birkenau and the Wieliczka Salt Mine into a single day. At short notice, Tomasz put together a bespoke tour itinerary and took care of our needs himself. The car was spotless and everything kept to time, yet we never felt hurried. Tomasz was very knowledgeable, not just on the sites themselves, but on the larger history of Krakow and Poland - offering us information when we wanted it, but not swamping us with it. He's a genuinely nice guy and his focus was entirely on customer satisfaction, strikingly different from the other sites and shops we had explored which seemed preoccupied with parting us from our money.
Auschwitz-Birkenau is never going to be fun - and shouldn't be - but the sites are for the most part sensitively developed with all the information you need to humanise the appalling statistics. The sheer industrial scale of Birkenau is something that only a visit can bring home.
Wieliczka gives you *plenty* of salt mine for your money - over two hours worth - but is well worth it, with several 'Ooh' moments when you come upon a new vast chamber full of sculpture carved out of the salt itself.
The combined itinerary is tiring, no doubt about it, and you will need comfortable walking shoes - between the two sites you will walk several kilometers. But for visitors like us on a tight itinerary, it gives the opportunity to get the best value out of a day, whilst still getting back in time to head out into town for the evening.
Highly recommended, both the tours themselves and KRK-KrakowTours.com as an excellent agency.
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