I put this on the WA forum before I discovered a home for this type of review so now have some photos too:

Trip report part 1 – Eat, drink and be merry - Fremantle

The trip for me always begins at the airport and as it is no longer easy to find a trusty bank with which to place my hard earned cash I decided to blow the lot and go business class. Although a BA regular – I was heading for Australia so opted for Qantas to start getting the feel for it right from Heathrow!

Good decision. Tucked into several glasses of Lanson rose champagne in the lounge which helped generate the holiday mood. The plane was the new A380 which was fantastic. The Qantas crew were superb – helpful, friendly, fun and without that snooty attitude which so many other airlines have. If this was a taste of Australia I liked it already.

Seats really comfy, food and drink were first class, loads of films I wanted to see, pyjamas, the lot. Also has a small lounge area where you can wander to and have a drink if you want a walk around. Even the Singapore to Perth leg on the A330 did not disappoint with the same cheery service and yet more of that scrummy Stella Bella chardonnay. How fitting that we were able to drink copious quantities of Margaret River wine 1000’s of miles before we got there. At this stage I loved the flights so much I could nearly have spent the 3 weeks on the plane – but there’s more to do and see out there so of we headed into the bright sunshine and towards Fremantle.

Taxi was easy and cost $54 to the Esplanade Hotel. (I will do hotel reviews later) Had a quick freshen up and out to try and catch the tail end of the renowned Australian “Sunday session” in Little Creatures brewery where we sampled a few local brews and chatted with some friendly locals while sitting outside just chilling. Headed on to Kailis seafood café which was like a step back in time. I tucked into the Seafood Delight – prawns, scallops, squid, fish and chips. Yum. We shared a bottle of wine. Found it funny to order food in one place and wine at another but sussed it out! The”other” had fish and chips and had a bit of a moan that he thought the chips were frozen. I was too busy tucking in to worry.

Decided on a walk around to burn off a few of the chips and headed for the “strip” to get our bearings and see what was on offer. Fairly quiet compared to home. Then came upon a backpacker place which seemed to have a lively bar so sauntered up to the bar only to immediately be identified as non residents and therefore not legally allowed to have a drink there. Oops, barred from a bar on day one!!!

Next morning took trusty Trip Advisor advice and headed left out of hotel to Mill Bake House for late brekky. Fruit toast was delicious and ordered a flat white (because I had never heard of one) Both became staples during the trip.

Stocked up on some bits in Coles so we could have provisions in the room should the munchies hit and we didn’t really want to take out a mortgage for the mini bar stock of food and drinks. Coles is like a supermarket here circa 1985 but more than adequate, just a slightly old fashioned feel. Found prices to be high in comparison to home. but of course a real bargain versus the hotel! Height of excitement in shopping centre when someone purposely smashed a bottle and ran off. The centre almost came to a standstill (or woke up) and security apprehended offender and discussion /argument ensued. CSI Fremantle in the mall.

Decided to check out the strip and sampled the fare at the Mad Monk and the Sail and Anchor before heading back to Little Creatures for a bottle of wine and chilli beef nachos while watching the world go by. In the search for life again, ended up in the Orient where by chance there was live Monday music and pitchers for $10. Quite a lively night.

Another cloudless sunny day – how can this be winter? Jumped on the CAT bus for a look around more of the town. Very impressed with the free public transport. Loved the architecture – lots of interesting buildings. Also took a long walk around town. The “other” sampled one of what seem to be staple fare – those famous pies. He loved them so much this was to escalate into a 2 pie a day habit. From this time on I affectionately referred to him as “Pieman”
Fresh air, long walks (and maybe those pies) have us worn out and we begin to adopt what seems to be a local habit of going to bed early. I mean 9 pm early!

Rottnest day. Really the start of the sightseeing and the end of the wandering around eating and drinking phase. Rottnest is very scenic and has beautiful beaches. You are on an island with no cars and lots of bikes with lots of families, surfers, fishermen, students. There is a slightly surreal theme park atmosphere. I had the same feel a few years back when staying at a hotel near Uluru. You are isolated and know you can’t go anywhere else (and so do those selling you food and drinks) but where you are is very picturesque. I may be paranoid but the old Patrick McGoohan series “The Prisoner” came to mind – not sure why. We enjoyed the bus trip around the island and walked along Geordy Bay and sat on little jetty watching someone fishing. Walked the 1.3 kms back to Quokka Arms, which was not what I expected. Seems to have had a renovation and is quite modern/trendy. Spent an amusing hour in the sun with a bottle of Sandalford watching the very cheeky peacocks steal people’s lunch, and the pelicans’ antics off the jetty.

I thought the trip to Rottnest was quite expensive with $45 boat fare plus $12 landing fee. I totally support a fee for the island but the total equates to what I can pay for a flight from Belfast to Paris! I read before I left that prices are going to rise considerably soon.

Had a very nice Indian meal in Maya and turned in early in preparation for picking up the car from Bayswater tomorrow. The gentle lead in is over and the road trip starts. I enjoyed Fremantle but in hindsight 3 days would probably have sufficed – as recommended by someone on TA – but I had already booked the 4 nights.

Early impressions
• people actually say G’day mate and no worries – that is so cool
• it gets dark early, before 6
• there is so little traffic
• people are great – confident and assertive without that arrogance some other nationalities tend to have
• just seems like a lovely place to live

Part 2 On the road – Bunbury and Margaret River

Picked up the “No Birds” Bayswater Toyota Sedan. Car was spot on – after a slightly kangaroo start (how very appropriate) due to lack of experience of an automatic, the “other” got to like it so much he now wants an automatic at home. Splashed out on GPS hire too – affectionately call her Geraldine, or Gerry for short. We failed to obey initial instructions and did a few tours of the block before we got used to her. Heard the first of what would become all too familiar “Perform a U turn” instructions.

Picked up our luggage from the hotel and headed for Bunbury. Wanted a short drive to start with as I didn’t know how the “other” would like driving here, and because I didn’t know if we would have our usual falling out over directions. Gerry really saved the day and once we were used to her I couldn’t get blamed for faulty directions. (Note to self – if he gets an automatic he might as well get a GPS too)

Very pleasant drive of 174 kms. Passed Mandurah, which looked very prosperous. Stopped at Macdonalds in Falcon for a coffee and a surprisingly nice wrap. Some roadworks and quite a few dead kangaroos along the way. Gerry took us effortlessly to the Mantra (see hotel review) Checked in and headed out to Big Swamp Reserve and bird park. Very pleasant hour or so. Very helpful lady on desk gave us instructions on the currency – the “other” thought the little $2 coin was 20 cents! Fed the birds and I managed to get pooed on – although that is supposed to be good luck. Couldn’t believe that you could actually go through into the aviaries via 2 rickety wire doors. If that was at home some yobs would either have let the birds out in the first 30 seconds or have strangled half a dozen birds and the place would be closed down. Walked around the reserve and saw plum skeet. Headed back to the Mantra and walked the mangrove boardwalk, past some class properties and the powerboat club.

Worked up a thirst so into town to the Rose Hotel – lovely turn of the century architectural style which is so prevalent in Australia. It is wonderful that they survive. If they were here they would have disappeared and if they become heritage listed but don’t make money they mysteriously burn down! Hit it lucky as happy hour which brought a bottle of sparkling wine down to $15 so we treated ourselves. Lounge had funny green topped tables and I expected a card game or beetle drive to start at any moment.

Decided to walk around and ended up economising and eating in Bucks Diner. A wide assortment of combos on posters around the wall took about half an hour to read. Settled on the pies. Back for another early night.

Set off for Cape Lodge on another hot and sunny day. Will my jacket ever get an airing? Headed for Busselton for brekky and for me to get a trip to the hairdresser. Walked the jetty – well as much as you can now. The beach had heavy deposits of weed from storms the previous week so the weather can’t be this good all the time. Quick walk around town – seemed very pleasant – then on to Dunsborough. Called into Dunsborough Bakery for coffees and hedgehog and custard tarts. Yum. Spied the pies which we would have a go at later! On towards Yallingup and turned at town hall for Cape Lodge. Wineries everywhere – this looks like heaven. Hotel even nicer than it looked on website and unpacked in our garden suite (will do review later) Walked around the property – small lake and gardens. Then off to visit a few wineries before our most extravagant meal that night at Cape Lodge. One extreme to another, Buck’s Diner…Cape Lodge.

Went to Mad Fish/Howard Park, mainly because we do drink these at home and it’s nice to see where they come from. Bought a bottle of Madfish rose – which we can’t get at home. This was the first of many bottles which became our own little wine stock for our room.

On to Laurance wines because the lake and statue emerging from it looked interesting (nicknamed chick on a stick and some other versions which I can’t really repeat out of political correctness) and also because it was so close to Cape Lodge. Paid $7 for a tasting. If you go, do use the loos – they are spectacular. Then to Saracen/Duckstein which is quite new and again a beautiful setting with a lake and decking. Seems to be some competition between property developers turned winemakers for who can have the most extravagant winery. How can these places make money when the investment in the premises is so huge?

Back to hotel which offered a little tasting late afternoon, then over for dinner 7.45. Lakeside restaurant with roaring log fires. Exquisite food and wine. Back to room to watch DVD’s – because there is really not a lot else to do!

Awake early to birds on roof. Over to restaurant for what was probably the best breakfast ever. Good ingredients and well presented. Read the papers and chilled. On walk back to room there were 12 “twenty eights” on the grass. Not sure why these birds are so called but did hear that it was the sound they made, and that the French named them therefore sound would actually be “vingt huit” Might be baloney but sounded good.

Set off with Sean on the “Best of the Best” wine tour (MR Discovery Co) Had a great day out but expected more than just 2 wineries – 3 or 4 would have been just fine. Just 4 of us in a comfy 4x4, we started off at Cape Mentelle and this was a really insightful visit. Walked into the vineyard and learnt about vitriculture, then the whole process and ended with a 6 wine tasting accompanied by 6 food pairings. We had expected the food to be a more substantial lunch rather than “pictures on plate pairings” however it was very nice. Bought a bottle of SBS which we actually have brought home with us. Sean took us to Prevelly Beach and for a look at Margaret River itself – which hadn’t much water in it! On to a contrast- small family winery called Edwards where there is a plane in a barn. On to Willyabrup and walked a portion of the Cape to Cape walk. Saw kangaroo (common) and a black cockatoo (rare) At about 4.00 we wound Sean up by asking when we were getting lunch. Don’t think he quite knew how to take us but other couple got the Irish humour and we had a bit of a laugh.

Returned to hotel and headed out to Yallingup but there wasn’t anything there really – apart of course from a lovely beach. On to Dunsborough where we had a middi in the pub and then squid and chips in a wee chippy.The drive back was our first and almost only drive after dark. Quite scary and we both commented on what we would do if we broke down as no other cars around. Or if a kangaroo jumped out and we hit it.

Thunder and lightening and heavy rain overnight – so lovely when you are all toasty inside. Up for another spectacular brekky. Watched the birds in the grounds and saw a kookaburra. Drove to Margaret River town but very busy and quite hard to get parked. Eventually did and had a walk around but thought it was a bit too touristy. Didn’t stay long.

Headed off to Quay West at Bunker Bay where we were staying the next 2 nights (I know it isn’t too far away but I wanted contrast between Cape Lodge and somewhere on the beach)

Only been here a week and feel like we have been away about 6 months – it’s great.

More impressions/observations:
• Haven’t had any bad service that people had led me to believe is endemic in Australia
• It is weird driving on roads with no street lights or cats eyes
• We are eating and drinking so much we might be charged for 4 seats coming home on the plane
• I could watch the wild birds for hours
• Why are nearly all the cars white when at home they are nearly all black? (is it a heat reflection thing?)

Part 3 - Bunker Bay to Pemberton

“Football, meat pies, kangaroos and Toyota cars”

Quay West is really busy because it is the holiday weekend. The “other” drops me and the bags at reception and goes to try and get parked. We are hyper about where we park as we are terrified by car rental horror stories and scared that whoever we park next to will bump our door. The “other” likes to take up two spaces to avoid this but Quay West is bunged and he has to make do with one. A slight grumpiness looks like it might emerge but disappears when he sees our lovely one bedroom villa. Really well planned with great facilities. There is a washing machine and tumble drier all of our own so I am in clean clothes heaven. Three washes in quick succession give me a real buzz!

Had a walk on the beach then off to Dunsborough again – feels like home now. Quay West has full cooking facilities so we decide to eat in. Bought pies in bakery to heat up with baked potatoes and baked beans. Well I am certainly not on hols to do real cooking! Also bought cold meats, celery, apples and cheeses to make filled rolls or picky platters.

Aha…the lady at the cold meat counter gave me the first (and only glimpse) of that service we had expected. She looked like she was out of “Happy Days” on TV but didn’t live up to the name and was exceptionally grumpy at me for asking for things like 2 slices of turkey and 100 grams of salami. I retaliated by refusing the offered 150 grams and insisting on 100 grams. Makes me very childish, I know.

Back to Quay West and sat in the bar and enjoyed 2 bottles of Villa Maria (traitors, I know, moving to New Zealand wine) Good people watching, especially a good looking lady who kept flicking her hair in a “look at me” sort of way. She and her partner ordered a bottle of wine and after one glass she seemed to lose the power to speak and move and had to be almost carried out. The people at the next table were also bemused and made the most of an almost full bottle of wine. Back to the room for feast of pie etc Popped all the dishes in the dishwasher so chores done.

Next day went down to the rocks and watched some fishermen then out to Cape Naturaliste lighthouse but a bit disappointed that you can only get near if you take a tour. Just looked from afar. Funny little houses there all empty because of asbestos. Kangaroos ignored asbestos warning signs and happily grazing in the gardens.

Went to Wise wines and were amazed that there is a premium of 15% on food because it is the holiday. They were even trying to charge the staff extra when they ordered their lunchtime soup. Bought absolutely wonderful sparkling Shiraz – we don’t really get this at home and loved it.

Gerry GPS went a bit loulou today and kept telling us to turn right whenever there was no road. Started to get us rattled enough to shout “SHUT UP GERRY” a few times. I am beginning to think she is a Stepford wife.

Headed off towards Happs winery and pottery, but stopped en route at Simmos for delicious ice creams. Did Happs then Deep Woods then Cape Naturaliste winery. They have a cute wee dog called Monty and have a photo of it perched on top of a log. The girl told us that this was their version of the chick on a stick at Laurance wines – the dog on a log!! Chatting to the girl here we commented on the Australian pies and kangaroos and she mentioned that there used to be a song about this and it was something to do with Holden cars – I have since searched You tube and there it is – a 1970’s ad for Holdens. How wonderful (and thus the title of this portion of the trip but in honour of our no birds Toyota.)

Back to Bunkers Café (owned by Deep Woods winery people) Totally empty as it is after the lunch rush and before it closes at 5. Have a bottle of wine and just chill again. Noticed that they also have a holiday premium. Back to make our own meal and watch some TV. Brilliant storm and loads of rain overnight.

Check out easy – very helpful girl who ran me down to the villa in the buggy to get the bags then round to the car. Off we go to Pemberton.

Gerry back to normal although she took us out towards Busselton again and down the Vasse Highway while I thought we might have gone down the Bussell Highway. However as we had no proper driving maps we relied on her. Besides – petrol is cheap and we have loads of time. Stopped in Nannup which was pretty and had another of those old hotels. Stopped and walked the main (only?) street and had the usual fruit toast/flat white combo. Drove for 45 minutes today without seeing another car in either direction – that is so spooky. Felt like we had driven into some sort of parallel universe where there was no one but us. Loved the trees everywhere.

Checked into the Pemberton Hotel. I had warned the “other” that we were going to stay in a local type place where we could have a drink and not have to drive and where there would be good local food. I am not sure I explained adequately what I meant by local as compared to Quay West and Cape Lodge. He looked decidedly sniffy and asked me where the lift was. Ha ha. I thought it was a great spot and real value for money but the jury was still out for him.

We walked the main street which felt like a timewarp circa 1950 with some cafes, the ubiquitous Visitor Information Centre, hardware store and a few shops up for sale. We got some maps in the VIC – which I have to say are without exception extremely helpful and a wonderful service for tourists. Headed off to the Gloucester tree. The forest is magnificent and we were lucky to have the tree to ourselves long enough for me to climb a dozen steps for photos (more than enough – I can’t even stand on a stool at home without getting tingly toes) We walked on through the forest until the peace was disturbed by a noisy large family group who screamed incessantly while arranging all 8 or 9 of themselves (including small children) at various positions up the Gloucester while one of them barked instructions from the look out at the top.

That was enough nature for the day and we went off to Salitage winery where we had a great chat with a very helpful guy from England who was pouring the wine. We actually liked the Pemberton wine more than the Margaret River wine – maybe the slightly cooler climes influence the taste. Salitage will ship a case of wine to UK for an amazing $18 so we may well be in touch with them on our return. Went to Lost Lake which is nearby and also enjoyed. Bought 2 bottles in each so car is beginning to fill up and we will just have to drink more quickly!

Back to hotel and sampled the pub then the lounge. The hotel is really quite busy on a Tuesday night as a coach trip stops here each Tuesday. Had a delicious meal in the lounge by the fire – we both settled on the special – surf and turf – which was a huge steak and 6 big juicy prawns covered in garlic sauce, chips, mixed veggies and a side of pepper sauce, with an unlimited salad bar if you are still hungry. Served by Irish girls – it seems a lot of young people who come to Australia get jobs in hotels in the middle of nowhere and get free board and lodging, there is nothing to spent their wages on so they save up for the next portion of the trip.

We headed back to the public bar and had some “craic” with the girls. The juke box was the other main source of entertainment and I enjoyed picking out some unusual tracks. The next thing I knew some local gents started giving me money. Did I really look that trashy? – no, apparently they liked my music and they wanted me to make more juke box selections. Mmm. As I’ve hit 50 I’m not sure what sort of statement that is on my musical taste.

At this stage the “other” has decided he actually loves this hotel and that it was a great choice. Happy days all round.

Very heavy rain this morning. Off to Bakehouse (yes – the fruit toast again) Drove to Big Brook Dam where once again we were the only people. Amazed that facilities are so good. Sheltered from the rain and saw gas barbeques –which were clean, worked and were free. At home someone would turn the gas on and try to blow them up. Or do unmentionable things on them.

Drove to Northcliffe because it looked like a town on the map, but really there was nothing there. Then back to the Cascades waterfall. Really heavy rain started and we had to pull off the road it was so bad. Tried unsuccessfully to find Warren winery so went to Jarrah Jacks/Smokehouse which is a brewery and winery. Pretty dodgy road up – especially after the rain. Bought a bottle of Semillon and headed back to hotel for some cheese and biscuits and wine in our room. Ate in the lounge again and I was adventurous with the marron platter while the “other” played safe with a fillet and mash. Once again a great meal.

Heavy rain overnight and set off for Denmark around 10am.

Observations:

Everywhere we go there are loads of public toilets which may be old fashioned but are clean and always have loo roll. This is wonderful – no matter how remote you are there is always a loo!

The Australians must love sport because every hotel has great sport channels. The “other” has been in sport heaven throughout and takes control of the remote control – just like home.


Part 4 Homeless in Denmark

Left Pemberton for Denmark. We had booked the Denmark Observatory but unfortunately it closed down on 22 May. We decided to just play it by ear and get a place when we arrived so this was the only part of our trip for which we didn’t have accommodation. It was a slightly unsettling feeling and we made up a song about being homeless which we sang as we travelled. These forests make our woods look like something kids make up on a board in school nature lessons. I thought we had transported to tree universe never to see a field again.

Gerry (GPS) going very weird. Maybe the trees block her signal. Stopped for a photo at the John Rate lookout, near to Walpole. Drove around looking for Walpole and discovered we were in it – had somehow imagined there would be more to it! Had a snack which of course involved a pie for one of us. The “other” seemed pleased that a local guy came in and ate 3 pies while waiting for his chips. On to the Giant Tingle Tree where the road was very scary. Had a lovely walk around the tree – a sort of loop walk. Once again we were the only people around.

On to the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk. This was much better than I expected and really quite exhilarating. It is very well done and you walk up zig zag steel structures to circular rest points, gaining height as you walk. The highest point is 40 metres up and as it was windy and the walkway moves a bit it is a bit hairy! We didn’t linger too long at 40 metres, but the views are spectacular. Well worth a visit.

The homeless vibe hit us again and we headed onwards to Denmark via Bow Bridge to sort out somewhere to stay. We stopped at the VIC and settled on Aiyana Retreat which looked nice. Helpful staff got it booked and gave us directions, so within 10 minutes we had a home again. (and a lovely one at that – review to follow) Went into Denmark to explore and stock up on groceries. This little town really appealed and we voted it the nicest so far. Had a beer at the hotel and called it an early night with a fast food carry out back to our studio. Watched great selection of DVDs which were provided and snuggled up on sofa with gas log burning stove at full blast and a nice bottle of Lost Lakes while rain poured down. It really can’t get much better.

The next day we drove the Scotsdale tourist route, which to be honest wasn’t that interesting so we diverted to the Lakes winery for coffee. Lovely setting. Watched a young chap doing the gardens and commented on how hard it would be to do heavy work in the heat. Then headed onto Mount Shadwick road to see what the Observatory resort looked like. It certainly had superb views from a great location. Seems a shame it closed.

Then we drove out to Ocean Beach and had it all to ourselves. The water was a magnificent colour and we took some spectacular photos. Had a real sense of the beauty of unspoiled nature and felt very lucky and privileged to be here. On to Elephant Rocks which we had all to ourselves and gave us more great photos. Beginning to think all other life had been wiped out and we were all alone in the world. Back to earth at the Green Pool which we had to share with another couple. The calm seas here are a real contrast with the raging surf at previous stops and the vibrant blue really had changed to a hazy celadon green. We were definitely getting too in touch with nature so called it a day and went to Forest Hill winery. Lots of kangaroos between the vines. Had a good tasting and a look at the restaurant menu – which looked very good. Bought an Estate sauvignon blanc and a Boobook rose just in case our stocks would run down!

Back into Denmark for a middi – which came with 2 raffle tickets (??) The gardener we had noticed earlier at the Lakes was there and asked us if we had enjoyed our visit. Felt it was a small world when we could walk into a pub and meet someone we “knew”! The pub seemed to be the place to be and we settled down to chilli nachos and a steak burger.

Then the entertainment started – the raffle tickets were for a chance to take part in “Open the Box” which appeared to be the highlight of the week in Denmark. There was a row of 15 wooden boxes along the top of the bar one of which contained $1700. The lucky winner then proceeded to stand on the bar top with the bar manager and pick a box to open for a chance to win. Number 9 was chosen then a noisy bargaining ensued where the manager proceeded to offer the winner money instead of the chance to open no 9. This was accompanied by audience participation. It went along the lines of “I’ll give you $50….crowd roars ”Give him $100” Carried away in the spirit of this bizarre moment I found myself shouting “Give him $200” The “other” looked at me as if I had taken leave of my senses. Told him it was a go with the flow moment. Winner settled for $250 and ……..the $1700 was in no 9!!!!!!!!! The crowd roars then the bar almost empties. That’s the end of the fun for another week.

We head back to our cosy studio and watch more DVDs because that’s what you do. What a lovely day of contrasts in our little parallel universe.

Part 5 All about Albany

We filled up with petrol (which was served by someone, something not seen here since around 1985). Decided to go via the Lower Denmark Road and detoured off to Shelly Beach. The road deteriorated and the “other” mumbled something like ”this had better be worth it” With an air of confidence I proclaimed that it would be and secretly hoped that it would! It was indeed spectacular – there were wooden jetties on the side of the cliff for hang gliders to jump from and drift over the lovely beach below. We spotted a kookaburra. Yet another magical moment. We made our way down to the beach.

Back on track through Cape Howe area to Albany and check in at the Beach House on Bayside at about 1.30. (will do review later) Very pleasant owner gives us a good map and circled a few suggested sights. We start of with a walk around Emu Beach which is nearby and then round to the marina area where we call into the Squid Shack. The “other” is very conservative about his fish so I got to eat most of his fish of the day (shark) along with my salt and pepper squid. Walked around and watched the pelicans before taking a drive around town.

Called into the Earl of Spencer for a middi then off to Mount Clarence and the war memorial and lookout. Back down to town and parked up and visited the gaol. Very interesting to see the list of (some quite minor) crimes which got convicts sent to Australia. Ambled around the museums – I loved the 2 ships figureheads in one, then took a look at the replica Brig Amity – which looks rather small and fragile to have made the journey it did.

Walked around town calling in at the Premier Hotel (that’s a bit of a misnomer!) and along Stirling Terrace which reminded me of a slightly faded late Victorian/early Edwardian seaside resort near home in Northern Ireland called Newcastle. Called into the Tanglehead Brewery where a poker game was in full and noisy flow on one side and a wedding party was celebrating on the other.

Called it a day and retired to the Beach House. The owners leave afternoon tea cakes in your room so I tucked into 2 rather scrummy unidentified square sponge cakes filled surprisingly with banana and coated in chocolate and coconut. I have a vague notion that these might be something I have heard people mention called Lamingtons but I could be completely wrong.

We had also arranged a rather delicious platter and a bottle of sparkling wine for the evening and of course the now mandatory DVDs. Watched Johnny Cash DVD “Walk the Line” which was unexpectedly good and we agreed to buy some Johnny Cash cds when we get home – how Australia has changed us!!!

Next day I reflect that we have now been in Australia 2 weeks but it feels like we have been away for about nine months. We have another rather delicious breakfast with the Sunday papers and tell ourselves yet again that we are very lucky indeed. It is raining quite heavily and for the first (and last) time I get to wear the jacket I have brought. We head for the Gap and Natural Bridge where the sea is really churning. For the first time we get caught in heavy rain far enough away from the car to get soaked. The car is steamed up for the rest of the day as we slowly dry out.

We warm up with a pot of tea in the café at Whale World and the sun starts to break through. We make our way to the Salmon Holes and watch fishermen on the beach and rocks. The sun dries our brollies and we agree that if we had a seat we could happily spent a few hours here in the hope of seeing a catch. The rain comes on again and we head for Stony Hill where we are the only people around. We see a kookaburra which always pleases and the “other” reckons something moved in the bushes. A huge kangaroo hops out which frightens the wits out of me. I return to the car at a much quicker pace than I left it.

We are having winery withdrawal symptoms so we head for Montgomery Hills winery – purely because the “other” is a Montgomery! We shared this fact with the owner and had a great chat about his origins – which were actually in Ireland – and the history of his family. We bought a bottle of a very fruity sauvignon blanc and took some photos.

Made our way to Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve. Amazed to see an information centre in the middle of nowhere (with excellent toilets of course) Learnt about the noisy scrub bird (what a wonderful name – it does what it says on the can!) I spent some time pressing buttons to hear what it sounds like in different moods (angry/friendly/mating etc) Luckily there was no one around as I felt a bit childish. Worse still I was really enjoying it! Fascinating story behind it and was interested that the Duke of Edinburgh got involved, and indeed visited this isolated spot and heard but didn’t see that noisy scrub bird.

Next stop was Little Beach where there are huge granite boulders, white sand and great turquoise seas swirling with surf. A lone fisherman casts into the surf. I could just watch for hours. I wonder if there are any opportunities for beach bums in Australia because I feel a career change coming on. Yet another at one with nature day!

We call off at Nippers on the way back and tuck into chilli chicken and cheese on Turkish bread. Back to base where the treats for the afternoon are slices of a fruity type Madeira cake smothered in butter. Make that 6 seats needed on the flight home.

We decide to head into town again for a middi at Tanglehead where there is live music then back for….yes, a DVD and a bottle of wine. Our trip is almost at an end and we will drive back to Fremantle the next morning to hand back our now much loved Toyota and Gerry the GPS.

Part 6 Winding up in Fremantle and Perth

We set off from Albany in bright sunshine with our only regret that we hadn’t squeezed in a whale watching trip. We take the highway and encounter the most traffic we have seen the whole trip. Those “road train” lorries are seriously scary. We pass huge fields of sheep and I get out the camera to record the sheer numbers of sheep in these fields. I sit for about 20 minutes frustrated that they all seem to be on the right hand side of the road and there are none on my side. The “other” suggests I climb into the back behind him if I want a photo but I don’t want one that much! Eventually a sheep field appears on my side but the “other ” won’t slow down for me to take a photo so I get a gray blur and no sheep.

We stop for loos (again spic and span) and a coffee in Kojonup. The “other” has a Twix and the wrapper is a winner and entitles him to a free bar. He wouldn’t stoop as low as going to the counter to get a free chocolate bar, but I do! He wants to get back on the road and doesn’t finish his coffee. I am from the “waste not want not “school so I do. This backfires because half an hour later we have to make another toilet stop in Williams which does not please him. Williams looked nice but the” other” is now on a mission and will not stop any longer. All I hear for the next hour is how we are overtaking cars which we had already overtaken miles back.

Gerry GPS really earns her keep getting us back into Fremantle. We keep our eyes skinned for a petrol station but don’t see one, then I discover that at the push of a button that Gerry will identify the nearest one for us which she does very effectively. The wonders of technology.

We check in to the Esplanade again and drop the cases and head to Bayswater to drop off our trusted car and Gerry. We had mixed reactions to this as although we had become fond of the driving and exploring there was a sense of being relieved of responsibility. We walk back to the hotel through the now familiar streets of Fremantle. When we were there at the start of the trip it seemed very quiet to us but now it seemed like the centre of the universe. I think our understanding of quiet has changed for ever.

As it is a Monday we return to the Orient for one of those $10 pitchers then eat huge pizzas in Sandrino’s before returning to the hotel. We are both subdued because we know this is the penultimate night in Australia and that, even worse, the next Monday we will be back at work.

Next morning the “other” is all set to get a taxi to our last stop, the Crowne Plaza in Perth, but I want to go to the hairdressers just up the street from the hotel. This doesn’t get the day off to the best start but I dispatch him off to get himself some brekky and food always takes the edge off a grump.

We get the taxi and comment that Perth is a beautifully situated city with all that water. Reminded me a little of Miami (without the vice!) The Crowne Plaza is nicely located and this is the cheapest stay of our trip as I had used Priority Club points for it. During a very pleasant check in we tucked into the free jelly beans at reception and were also given a voucher for 2 free glasses of wine at the bar and upgraded to a river view room with a balcony.

We headed out past dozens of cockatoos (those are really ugly birds) towards Barrack Street jetty area, then head past the Bell Tower and on to the shopping mall area as we haven’t actually bought anything yet (apart from all those bottles of wine). We wonder aimlessly as we don’t really like shopping but sort of feel we should get something. I decide that I would like a tuna mayo sandwich and it takes about 10 goes to find somewhere that has one. The “other” is not happy and mutters “what’s wrong with just tuna – why do you have to be so difficult” I think it is just that reality is starting to set in and we are starting to get into home mode.

We eventually get our sandies and this lifts the mood a bit but I think that we need to do something or see something so I offer 2 options – an open top bus tour or a visit to the Perth Mint. Off we go to the mint and thoroughly enjoyed the gold pour and trying to lift a really heavy gold bar with one hand, and getting onto scales which tell you the value of your weight in gold. The “other” was smug as he was worth over $3m until I pointed out that it just means that he has gone from pleasantly rounded to very flipping big.

We head back to the Belltower which I want to visit but just miss the last entrance time. I console myself with a middi at the “Lucky Shag” and we giggle like school kids about how a pub can have such a name. I know it’s a bird but you just wouldn’t get away with that at home. I persuade the “other” to go on the blue CAT route as I want to see the Brass Monkey and off we go there for another middi. We decide to walk back to the hotel from there.

We enjoy our free wine in the bar and I pop back to the room to freshen up, only to find a complimentary bottle of a very good wine on ice. This hotel just can’t do any more for us - maybe the next step would be that they will pay us for staying. We decide that we must spend some money here so order a rather good room service dinner (the ham hock and pea risotto was yum)

We get up early next day and walked back to London Court for a couple of pairs of Uggs and a few bits. Then back to check out and get a taxi to the airport. A very quiet ride but we both knew what we were thinking - that this really magical trip was coming to an end. I offered to buy all the food and drink at the airport (because I knew we would be in the Qantas lounge) but this backfired a bit because first of all we couldn’t check in until exactly 3 hours before (unlike London etc) and we had an hour to hang around and secondly departures doesn’t open until 2 hours before the flight so we had another hour to kill. When we got to the lounge we made up for this with numerous glasses of champagne. It turned out Qantas also had us sitting in different bits of the plane for the Singapore – London leg so we had to get that sorted out. The “other” proclaimed that this was because we weren’t married and had different surnames and decreed that we should tie the knot as soon as possible.

The flights were again excellent and the crew ever bit as helpful and cheery as on the way out. We had 3 hours in the lounge in Singapore and used the time to freshen up with a pleasant shower and a few more glasses of that champagne. On the final leg the “other” asked for a ladies toilet bag and medium pyjamas as he was going to give them to his daughter and the lovely crew gave him ones for himself and extras for her. You wouldn’t catch BA doing that!

Back to porridge and an economy flight to Belfast. The adventure I had spent so much time planning was over. The nights on Trip Advisor had indeed been worthwhile and I just don’t know what I will do with myself from now on. Well, until the Sunday papers arrived with lots of lovely flight offers………roll on the next trip, but it will be exceedingly difficult to surpass the wonderful experience we had in this fabulous country. A really heartfelt thank you to all those people who we came across who were so welcoming, helpful and friendly and to all those Trip Advisor posters who were a source of so much great advice.

I hope these reports help someone. Kind regards. Sue