You have to arrive on the Ghan from Alice to be met by Derek the local tour guide,pitch black apart from a small bonfire to halt the train.You are immediatly met with a drink and a smile and taken to Coober Pedy.The hotel was the Dessert Caves where the rooms were underground(another first)great food and company.The town it self was like something from a Mad Max movie fascinating,Tours into the painted dessert and the mail run a must.You should also leave Coober the same way that you arrived.