We first ate at Marque fifteen years ago and Mark Bests singular fine diner remains an unusual dining experience, both more and less than one expects. The food theory and flavour combinations are clearly complex but the presentation is overtly simple to the point of plain, with several of the degustation dishes on our recent visit appearing at first glance ( and sometimes at second and third taste) to be essentially purees with molecular wafers. While undoubtedly clever and complex, some of the flavour combinations and textures didn't seem complimentary to us and the portion sizes of the meat dishes, while exquisite to taste are small enough to incite regret. Wait staff were polite but hushed and a little over reverent, and given that the menu is not presented in printed form till the conclusion of the meal we had to have some of the dishes explained several times to us. Marque is certainly a special occasion restaurant, and not for everyone. One has to admire the commitment to Mark's vision and style, but it may be another fifteen years before we can submit to it again.
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