We were only "passing through" Bantry, looking for a room for one night so that we could hurry on to our destination in Connemara. We never made it to our destination. One night at the Atlantic Shore turned into two, which turned into three...and would likely have turned into four, five and six nights if the Atlantic Shore hadn't been completely booked for the upcoming bank holiday weekend. The food was that good, the owner was that charming and yes, the room was that comfortable! Oh, and the price, at 33 euros, was the best deal we found in Ireland.

Early on my first morning, I passed the kitchen on my way to the dining room, and saw the owner Maggie Doyle silhouetted in a sunbeam streaming through her kitchen window. I paused to enjoy the homey sight as she sliced into a freshly baked loaf of bread. The steam that poured forth wreathed her in its heady fragrance, making her look like a Kitchen Madonna. After feasting on her baking and her cooking, I have to say that I was more than willing to worship at the shrine of Maggie Doyle.

I am an admirer of talented baking, and Maggie's is simply the best. Along with the rich and moist baked-fresh-every-day bread loaves, she offered piping hot, delicately textured fresh scones. The breads were enhanced by a selection of the best home-made jellies and jams I've ever tasted. The beautifully set table was laden with bowls of sliced fresh fruits, ripe whole strawberries, and a generous and varied assortment of cheeses and cereals. After feasting our eyes and palettes, we were offered a traditional Irish breakfast by the ever-smiling Maggie. As one who turns up her nose at any meat or fowl more gamey than a chicken breast, I have never been remotely tempted to eat the Irish breakfast specialty, black and white puddings. I was not only tempted at Maggie's -- I was hooked by the perfectly crisped puddings served with eggs and bacon. While preparing breakfasts-to-order, Maggie popped in and out of the dining room, using her charm and humor to turn a group of strangers into a group of chatting, laughing friends.

Our room at the Atlantic Shore was decorated in pale oak furniture and light neutrals, giving the impression of a larger space than it actually was. The room's size was typical of most B&B's, with a large and comfortable bed, a mirrored desk and 2 chairs, in addition to very generous closet space. Our room had sliding glass doors that opened onto a small private patio, with a table for two, from which we could catch a glimpse of Bantry Bay. If anything about our stay was less than perfect, it would have to be the hand-held shower nozzle in the spotless bath. I never quite got the hang of that thing, but it was the only disappointment in an outstanding B&B.

The town of Bantry is charming, with a weekly village market that offers just about anything you could ask for. We saw leather purses, bathroom sinks, an amazing array of olives and cheeses, fresh fish and live chickens! And that was only the beginning - it would take an entire page to list the variety of items available. For shopping, the town has several galleries that offer better than average hand-made crafts for purchase as souvenirs and gifts. We dined twice in the "Snugg Pub" recommended by Maggie, and found the freshly prepared food to be delicious and priced very reasonably by Irish standards. The town is perfectly situated to tour the Beara Peninsula as well as Mizen Head and Sheep's Head.

Before and after leaving the Atlantic Shore B&B, we stayed in a number of other B&B's, but we found that the standards set by Maggie were so far superior, that the other B&B's left us pining for Maggie's cooking and hospitality. If you are planning to visit that part of County Cork, you simply cannot do better than the Atlantic Shore in Bantry.