Wernigerode is a small city situated northeast in the Harz Mountains east of Braunschweig. Very interesting in itself, it is also a way station on a loop through the Harz Mountains from the Grocken to Ilseburg that passes through a beautiful natural cave area and, just before Wernigerode as one heads north, across a ridge above a large artificial lake, then across a grand dam followed immediately by a tunnel, at its far end a place to park, walk back and take the specatular view to the north, this sequence of fun built by the DDR.
Everywhere in this area is beautiful, relatively unspoiled either by WWII damage or by DDR neglect.
Wernigerode, itself, benefitted in a small way by the grandstanding habits of DDR politicians; typically a particulary beautiful town center of historical value would get a bit of cosmetic treatment while anything out of the tourist sightlines would be left to go hang.
Whatever occurred during the occupation years, the Wernigerode town center is now in excellent shape. A main street drops gracefully down to the town center where a unique City Hall from the 15th Century dominates the scene. It is a surreal masterpiece of Fachwerke (wood slatting) with stark demon faced drain spouts jutting out horizontally from roof corners.
Across the street are convenient cafes with out door seating, nearby an open tourist train that will take you up the hill to a wonderful Renaissance castle of the kind that was typical of the viceroys of that period, not overdone, but quietly opulent and very imposing. Its carved stone main staircase is a grand piece of work. From the heights and balconies of this remarkable building, one sees stunning views of the town and the hills beyond.
This area has never been on the hit parade of the average American tourist. I know it, because I was stationed in Luebeck for three years during the cold war and am married to Luebecker. She and I look around extensively in the northern and now opened eastern parts of Germany. It is a greatly underappreciated area. As long as it stays that way, you'll do well to take advantage of its many graces.
Enjoy.
John Dinwiddie
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