I love Italy and have been there about 10 times now but this was my first visit to Tuscany. It's a lovely place to base yourself as it is easy to get to Pisa, Florence, Lucca by train or bus. The flight to Pisa only took 1 hr 40 mins and it's only about 15 mins by train to Viareggio.
The town itself isn't full of souvenir shops, in fact most of the shops along the promenade (where the locals do the passeggiata) are of the designer variety - a bit pricey for most. However I picked up some good bargains at the local market on a Thursday. There are some nice pine woods behind the main row of hotels where cycling is popular, bicycles are cheap to hire and it's very flat so easy to get to the other end of the town or the next town. I only ate in the hotel so can't comment on restaurants but there is a huge choice along the promenade.
The beaches are all private but I got a chit from my hotel, it was clean, the sea was warm and quite shallow.
I will definitely go back, even if only to use as a base to explore the rest of Tuscany.