It is impossible to describe the magic of the Villa il Paradisino; you have to go there and feel it. A working villa, a farm, it is a thoroughly modern haven in a 16th century setting. Sheltered behind its walls, it manages to take you back in time without leaving the present. It is both restful and energetic. Comfortable and ancient. The variety of fruit, vegetables, spices and herbs grown on the 10 acres seems limitless -- and maybe is, since the family keeps experimenting with varietals. The magician behind the villa is the proprietress, Costanza, a mid-thirties member of the ownership family. She will welcome you personally and see that you have whatever you need or want. There is nothing Costanza can't or doesn't do for her guests. A few special words about Costanza's cooking classes. Take one. The first of five hours are spent in the gardens and orchards as she explains the various vegetables and herbs, what they are good for and how best to use them. You pick them as you go along to use in the class. In the kitchen, Costanza teaches with energy, humor and a deep knowledge of traditional Italian and Tuscan dishes. You cook a five-course meal of your choosing from a menu. That meal is then served to the other guests and to Costanza's family. (No pressure there!) The wines, grown on the premises as is the Extra Virgin olive oil -- don't use anything else, even in cooking -- is first rate. And get Costanza to hold a pizza party for you, which she and her sister Serena will also cook. Endless kinds of pizza flow from an outdoor, ancient wood-heated bread oven. I have visited there three times, now, and enjoyed it more each time. The Villa il Paradisino is an unforgetable memory and should be an indespensable stop on any trip to Itraly.