We were staying in Chiusi for a week and dined at Il Bucchero on the recommendation of our landlord. During our stay, other locals also recommended it, usually referring to it as 'Pino's place.' Pino being the charming owner and chef. On our first visit, the garden was filled with a party of around 50 families with young children from a local arts program and the small staff was rather harried, warning us that if we wanted pizza it would take about 20 minutes. We are supporters of Italian 'Slow Food' so we settled in with our wine and salad and bread. The pizzas did not take very long and were well worth the wait. We had one with gorgonzola and mushrooms and one with prociutto. They are excellent pizzas with a well made thin crust and generous cheese and toppings. Among locals we met it is generally agreed that Pino makes the best pizza in the area - and people drive miles to get pizza to go. Pino came out from the kitchen and stopped to chat with us. It turns out he was on a break before the second wave of older kids from the art school were due to arrive. We so enjoyed our dinner and that we returned on our last night in Chiusi. This time we ate in the garden, which is quite lovely - under grape arbors and with high walls around. There was a bit of a wait before the waiter came to set our table, but we didn’t mind because we were in Chiusi and it was our last night. We ordered the insalata mista, the red turnip and ricotta ravioli in a light cream sauce, the risotto with truffles, and polenta with sausage and some kind of pork. The polenta came with a tomato sauce and was excellent. The risotto was redolent with truffles and wonderful, but the ravioli was an amazing surprise with the turnip and ricotta melting in your mouth. The meal was wonderful – we asked for more bread to sop up sauces. As we were finishing, Pino came out and we had a hard time not gushing about our enjoyment of the meal. On our next trip to Italy, we plan to return to Il Bucchero - even if it means making a special trip to Chiusi. One hint, Il Bucchero is on a small side street with no other businesses so it's easy to miss but well worth finding.
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